We went looking for waves this early morning on the North shore and ended up at Haleiwa.  It seemed to be the best.  This girl is always up for any challenge.

Everybody was expecting sunny and perfect conditions today, but it was the opposite.  Cloudy, rainy, cold, and bumpy.  Still super fun though.  

Tourists on the famous North shore.

Dropping in is bad surf etiquette.  Shame on the guy riding in the front.

This afternoon we came back to town and surfed Diamond Head.  Rainy so a few surfers out and super fun waves.

This girl is getting comfortable in all conditions.  She surfed, I foiled, and everybody went home happy.

I couldn’t believe how crowded Pipeline/Backdoor was!  OMG, there were about a hundred surfers out.  Surfers getting major injuries every day.  I still feel that I’m still capable of getting waves out there, but the question is, “is it worth the risk?”  The answer has always been “yes.”

That last swell we had in town was amazing.  There is a spot that is a wave magnet and when it gets good, it’s the best right hand wave on the South shore.  And to make it even better, there is a nice parking spot for Mayuki right outside the break.  This was the best boat trip we had in a very long time.

Japanese surf ladies on the North Shore…

Good morning 4:15am.
North shore 3-5′ and good. Pipeline Pro maybe woman’s today?
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and good.
Light winds today. Super strong North winds starting tomorrow.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!