konban wa. woke up early morning to check the waves. was too dark so i came back and checked the winds on my computer. the wind was offshore out here on the north shore but the wind stations in town posted west winds. shit, better get it early. went to the dove house to grab everybody, paddled out to lani’s, only 2 other guys out. surfed for 40min then there came the west winds right on time. then the conditions were bad for the rest of the day. lucky we got up early today…

then back for lunch. or should i say, brunch. maguro chazuke donburi. oishikatta!!!

then it was time for a second lunch. raw shirasu and baby octopus over hot rice. thank you kimura-san and yamari…

back to the secret spot yesterday. the 6 of us left the north shore around 3pm. we drove for 1 hour, parked our car, climbed over a mountain, got bit by thousands of mosquitos, walked for 30 minutes in waist high deep mud, paddled out 20 minutes, then finally arrived at our secret spot. the waves were 4′ and square. yeah, thick barrels. we scored big time… wanna go there? try to find it… haha…

and last, just to let you know that they have been setting up DUI roadblocks on the haleiwa bypass around 9pm at night. you shouldn’t be drinking and driving but i’d just thought i’d let you know… drive safe. and drink safe…
**north winds blowing hard now. big swell tonight but junky winds. maybe a day off tomorrow. have a great evening..

6:45am backdoor/pipe check. waves 3′ and fun. nobody out…
asa no surf check. backdoor/pipe desu. dare mo haitenai desu….

good morning. 6:30am tuesday morning. shit, i think the west winds are here already. west winds are the worst winds for hawaii. maybe we can sneak in an early morning session if we’re lucky. once the winds pick up, no surfing….. i’m out of here..

remember that maguro we bought yesterday? after that, we stopped by 7/11 to grab heineken beers, matchi and satoshi stopped by foodland to grab ingredients for tacos and burritos. hayato had the honors to cut the fish. and we had the best maguro/mexican night….

no, this is not a dead bat. i cut the maguro head or “kama” in half and put it in the oven. oh my gosh… so good…

hayato did an awesome job in making the sashimi. let me say this, it doesn’t get any better than this…

cholo’s? taco bell? no, dove tacos….

hawaii sashimi, mexican burritos, and german green bottles. this is what you call “an international fiesta”….

and last, imagine driving back to the north shore after an awesome session at some secret spot we all surfed for the first time. our car with a fresh tuna in the trunk, heinekens flowing, pork skins, and a lot of laughter. tokura-san, matchi, satoshi, hayato, and kenji, thanks for yet another awesome day of surfing and our awesome lifestyle…. surfers rule. more on our secret spot later. or maybe not… some secrets are best kept secrets. wait!! i like to share so i’ll draw a map later today. haha…