good evening. the waves didn’t get as big as they expected but it was big enough for half the tourist on the island. gosh, the north shore was packed with cars today. traffic, people, and frustration. it seems that every year more and more tourists head out to the country. i don’t think it’s anything to do with a surfing boom. i truly feel that it’s because of the new surfing scale. if i were a tourist and heard the waves were going to be 40′, i’d check it out too. and the turtles at laniakea ain’t helping one bit. the other day, a tourist stopped and asked me where the turtles are. i pointed them to foodland. haha. just joking. but after spending a full day out here on the north shore, i don’t think i could live here. surf/dive/have fun, then go back to town. yeah, you can call me a townie if you want. but i’m ok with that…. well, the beers are starting to flow. gotta go enjoy…

passing by laniakea for the past 45 days and seeing how dirty the water is pretty depressing. hayato and tokura-san couldn’t believe how brown and dirty it was. for me, i’m getting use to it. i’m just worried about all those poor fish….

this years dove house is stashed away in a quite place right against the mountain. it’s pretty peaceful….

but once night comes and the beers come out, it won’t be so peaceful. day 1 of many many days. stay tuned…..

good morning. 6:30am and here come the waves. north shore is 1-2′ now but should be 15′ by this evening. buoy 1 jumped up to 10′ 19 seconds. no eddie aikau, no tow in surfing contest, no backdoor shootout, but big enough to close out all spots on the north shore by tomorrow. junky west winds on the way too so there are only going to be a few spots that will be good. and a couple of them, you need a boat. surf/dive? that’s probably going to be the call. but for now, i’m going to surf the upcoming swell. if your not an experienced surfer, please don’t go near the ocean on the north or west shore. it might look small but the waves are on the way. and when they come, they come. have a great surfing day!!!

for every two couples that get married in america, one end up in a divorce. and when you get divorced, the laws in america are pretty much “he gets half, and she gets half”. i guess this wife got the best out of her divorce. the dam car…. WAS HIS. classic….

check out this diving story jared sent me. him and his deaf friend paul went diving out at makapuu and ran into this #80lbs ulua. crazy story. CLICK HERE FOR FULL STORY…

good evening. finally cleared most of the boards under my house out. and come to find out, there is a little kitten living under there. it’s black with white stripes and runs away when i try to call it. it’s so tiny and i’m wondering where the mother is? what should i name it? anyway, big swell coming tomorrow but peaking at night so probably no eddie aikau contest. somewhere will be good but we’ll just have to find out tomorrow. have a great evening….

matchi and satoshi came to hawaii today. loaded up the boards, and headed north. DOVE HOUSE STARTS TODAY!! see you there…

oh my gosh!!! i just watched the new skin diver yesterday and it blew my mind. the guys were diving off the west side of oahu in the middle of a rare bait ball. thousands of fish swirling around in a big black ball trying to keep from getting eaten by sharks, tunas, uluas, and almost every big fish out there. the were spearing huge fish!! shit, i wish i was there!!! i told kyle that he should send his stuff to national geographic tv. i’m sure they would be interested and events like that make the national news. i’m going to jump in my boat tomorrow and look for a bait ball. want to know the chances of finding one? 1 in a million…. anyway, 8pm tonight on channel 16 is a rerun. watch it and it will blow your mind too…. it’s nature at it’s best….

and last, think you had a hard job? this lady has to walk 10 miles everyday in the middle of a war carrying her 18 month baby just to sell wood. so go back to work and appreciate your job. in fact, you should tell your boss thank you… thanks boss…