good morning. 6:45am and i just got back from bowls. it was pitch dark when i got to the beach at 5:30am. i was about to paddle out and this lady that was fishing on the beach told me not to go out because of the sharks. i thought that was pretty funny. she said that i’m crazy and as i was paddling out in the pitch dark, i thought i was crazy too. got out there, caught my first wave and was surfing into the moonlight and the lights at waikiki. it was totally awesome… i felt like a kid again…. i had bowls to myself until 6am when this guy paddled out and told me he was shocked to see me out before him. i was going to catch 3 waves and come in but had too much fun so i caught 8 waves. gosh, i feel so fresh and energetic now. what a way to start off my long day. i’m so happy….. life is good!!!!
**got a lot of emails about the video i took yesterday. yes, i did take it by myself. somebody thought i had a photographer with me. haha.. that’s pretty funny. i feel comfortable talking to myself. i always do…. haha.. just joking. i just thought instead of writing my blog and posting photos, i’d try something different. so i’ll be doing this once in a while. i had fun so it’s all good…. now check out this other video i made of our trip to the philippines last year. anyway, i got to get out of here. heading to the airport and catching a 9 hour flight to japan. hope i don’t forget anything…. back live from the land of the rising sun later…. aloha…..
**went to the philippines last year for the cloud 9 invitational contest along with a japan surfing world magazine article. i just put together a slide show of some of the photos and video i took. gosh, besides from getting food poisoning, the trip was awesome. good waves, good friends, good experiences, and good memories…. check out part 1 of 2. it was pretty long so i split it up into 2 parts. hope you enjoy….
**by the way, i found out that a lot of people don’t know how to use youtube videos. see that play mark in the photo above, click on that and the video will play. mahalo…
Surfing the Philippines: Sairgao Cloud 9 Part 1 of 2
Dawn Patrol….
good morning. gosh, the waves look super good. solid 3′ and perfect conditions in town. it’s only 5am but i’m going to get my 3 waves and come in. back later….
Early Morning Ala Moana Bowls and Cruzing Town….
good evening. i left my house this morning with my new video camera. took some clips and put together a little video. check it out!! i can’t wait to go to japan and take some nuts kine video. i’m stoked with my new toy. i’m still beginning but give me a month or so and i’ll be making some killer video clips. haha…. so if you see me with my camera, you better run or you’ll be on youtube before the days end… haha……..
**by the way, did a short video interview on ben aipa this morning. bumped into him at bowls and had a little talk about his take on japanese pro surfers, top hawaiian amateurs, and the importance of coaching. that video coming soon….
**and last, i get tons of email from friends or some of the locals that ask me about japanese chicks. guys, i don’t know. i don’t look at girls. but i found a website that has some pretty good looking chicks. and they all surf with g-strings… haha.. just joking…. check out some of the faces in japan by CLICKING HERE…..