Score Vland and Haliewa….

277


good evening. gosh, such a long fun day of surf!! i took kairi, reika, and kota surfing on the north shore today. we checked ehukai sandbar and the waves were pretty dam good, but a little too big for the 3 kids….

so we all went to check velzyland. i thougth the waves were going to be junk because of the north direction in the swell but i was wrong. the waves were going off!! barreling and spitting. no rippers out so we scored big time. and get this, the waves were bigger than ehukai. the kids had their rides of their lives… they looked scared but i was more scared watching them charge. i’m glad the water was a little dirty so they couldn’t see how shallow it was…. awesome session….

then we went to haleiwa for lunch and shopping. these kids are classic. kairi is only 9, kota is 10, and reika is 13. gosh, i’m getting old…

second round, it was off to haleiwa. the lefts were firing and the kids were ripping it up. i really enjoy watching the stoke in the kids faces when they catch a good wave. that’s what surfing is all about…
anyway, i’m dead tired and the waves will be good all week long. have a nice evening and hope your surfing your dream. i sure am…. good night…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide