good morning. 6:30am friday morning. hey, the waves came up on the north shore and it’s looking pretty dam good at pipe/backdoor. 4-8′ and on the rise. the only bummer thing is that the pipe contest trials will probably go today, being the last day of the waiting period. those guys are going to score because the waves are still coming up… light trade winds making perfect conditions on the north shore, and in town. speaking of town, SOUTH SWELL AGAIN!!! yeah, shoulder high sets or even bigger in town. and i heard this swells going to last for a while. so once again, waves, waves, and waves. everybody go surf!!! have a safe day….
this is why i don’t like sitting in the inside. where ever i surf, i always paddle out to the peak and never sit in the inside for 2 reasons. one is that i want to catch the sets. and the other reason is because i don’t want to get run over. yesterday at vland, i had the kids so i was sitting in the inside with them. this guy took off on the outside and pulled into the tube right in front of me. i knew he was going to run me over so i threw my board in between him and me. this is what happened…. his fin went all the way through my board. i was bummed out but i guess it’s better than his fin going through my head. that would have sucked….
this is the worst place to get a ding like this because even though i fix it, the board will never be the same. it will always flex here and slow the board down. gosh, i’m having bad luck with boards this year. but once again, a broken board is better than a broken head….
and last, wanted to wish my niece kelia moniz a happy sweet 16 birthday!!! here she is getting ready for her biggest night of the year. yeah, tonight is her sweet sixteen birthday party at dave and busters from 6pm to 12am. see ya there…
