good morning. still got some waves in town. looks like 3′ and semi clean. not as clean as yesterday morning but still looking fun. got a bunch of guys out at bowls and probably 200 guys out at diamond head again. heard it was nuts yesterday. north shore is big. 8′ with a close interval swell. the waves are close together and not that good. sunny day again so get out and enjoy. i’m out of here..
want hardcore? this is hardcore…. do i want to try it? no way….
**though i’d share this message i got from a friend. i totally agree….
Life is too short to wake up with regrets. So love the people who treat you right. Forget about the one’s who don’t. Believe everything happens for a reason. If you get a second chance, grab it with both hands. If it changes your life, let it. Nobody said life would be easy, they just promised it would be worth it.
Life is Short….
Valentines Day Waimea Bay Gallery…
good evening. gosh, what an awesome day for surf on our south shores. a solid swell hit today and with no wind, perfect conditions. surfed our little secret spot this morning for 2 hours. overhead and perfect. caught about a 100 waves and had one of the best sessions i had in a while. surfed out.. came in and drove around to check other spots….
no, this is not backdoor/pipe. this is town today. we got an off season swell and nobody’s complaining…. that wave is 4′ and perfect…
japanese pro surfers session on the south shore. every japanese staying on the north shore came to town. so did photographers and video guys. tetta mori, shu hagiwara, shinpei horiguchi, yuki tako, keito matsuoka, satoru nakachi, and some others were ripping this semi secret spot. oh, even pro bodyboarder aoi koike was there. i don’t really want to say where because it’s starting to get crowded. and the worst part is, the wave isn’t that good. i use to surf here with my friends to get away from the crowds. on a day like today, there would only be us out. but now days, too dam crowded. i was actually kind of bummed out… part is my fault so i guess i can’t complain…. ended up going back in the evening to the secret spot we surfed this morning. got there at 4pm. right when we paddled out, the winds turned and the north winds blew straight offshore. the waves were epic. surfed with kenji sahara, todd mitsui, chiaki okayama, and maki vernon. had an awesome session and an awesome day of surfing in town. same thing tomorrow…..
and for all of those who emailed me about the waimea bay gallery on valentines day. it’s up now!! check it out on GO-NAMINORI.COM…..
**pipe bodyboard womens contest gallery coming next. chotto matte ne……
The Present….
good monday morning. waves in town!! good conditions!! get on it!!! diamond head is the spot. it’s about 4′ and super super glassy. as for north shore, forget it. onshore and small. it’s going to be a beautiful day so enjoy it!!! save gas, surf town…..
i went to check diamond head yesterday afternoon right when the winds changed. gosh, the waves looked super fun…. today will be super funner…..
and once again, a tsunami warning was issued when a 7.2M earthquake shook up the mentawai islands on monday. freakin scary….
**i walk into andy’s sandwich shop a lot and always read the messages taped on the walls. this one was new so thought i’d share it. it’s pretty cool….
DON’T WORRY ABOUT YESTERDAY,
BECAUSE IT’S HISTORY.
DON’T WORRY ABOUT THE FUTURE,
BECAUSE IT’S A MYSTERY.
LIVE FOR TODAY AND APPRECIATE IT,
BECAUSE EACH DAY IS A GIFT.
THAT’S WHY IT’S CALLED THE
“PRESENT”…..
and last, check out this photo of these 3 dolphins rina sent me. freaking awesome. thanks rina. i think i’m going to swim with the dolphins today. have a nice day…