good chilly saturday morning. i think this is the first time we got north winds this winter season. it’s freezing cold!! the waves are junky and stormy on the north shore again but town is looking fun. i’m guessing diamond head is the best spot today? 2′, perfect off shore, and a lot of waves. and probably a lot of people. but it’s all good because it’s good to share waves with everybody right? i like to share waves so much but i like to be in front. some people call that dropping in but not me, i call it sharing… go out and share today.. see ya…
we were surfing this secret island spot in east indonesia back in september. then this 14′ catamaran pulls up with 2 surfers from australia. there was no motor on the boat and i can’t believe how this little thing made it all the way to indonesia. the guy and girl said it took them 2 months. this is what you call “hard core traveling”….
been watching the news on president bush recently and he’s not that popular. i would be pretty bummed if somebody on the other side of the world dressed up like this mocking me. my feelings would be hurt…. ouch…
