Extreme or Crazy Diving?

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hayato and i are crazy. well, that’s what everybody’s been tell me after i told them we went diving today. extreme? desperate? hard core? or plain stupid? none of the above. we just wanted to dive so we went diving. pretty simple. so we ignored the high wind warning and every other kind of warning and went surfing diving. yeah, we grabbed longboards, paddled 2 miles straight out to sea, and dove all morning….

will all this rain we’ve been having, the mountains are as green as it gets. this mountain is usually brown but not now. this is what i call “the calm before the storm”….

don’t let this photo fool you. at one point, we were so far out that you couldn’t even see the houses on the beach. then the storm came. i stuck my head out of the water and i couldn’t see anything, not even the 2000′ high mountains. it was kind of freaky but we kept on diving. i learned not to panic and to relax. so that’s what we did. anyway, i took this photo on the way back passing makapuu. it was beautiful…. the calm after the storm. haha…

today wasn’t the greatest for fish but we got a few. we speared those big nenue’s for the family that was on the beach. the lady was watching my car for me so nobody would steal it. and lucky nobody stole it because i parked it at on of the most dangerous beaches on the island… it’s so dangerous that i can’t even say the beaches name…

we were starving from all that paddling and swimming. hayato made the call for a garlic chicken bento. and that was the right call….

then i went back to t-mobile to take back that piece of crap $200 phone i bought yesterday. i waited again for 2 hours and i’m back to where i started 2 days ago. with my old phone. i hate this digital world….

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide