good evening. shitty waves around the island today. south/west winds screwing up everywhere except the east side. but the waves are flat so no good. some rain, some sun, some winds, and some of everything. a shitty day for some, but an awesome day for me…. tomorrow expect north winds with a south swell. what does that mean? yeah, i’ll see you out there….

wanted to thank fabian for sending me this photo this morning. this was yesterday morning at backdoor. the bungie jump wave. looks pretty cool.. haha… neal miyake, who i’ve know for years took this photo. right after i came up, neal was right there and said “yeah kirby”… now i know why. he got the shot…. when i first seen this photo, my ass got sore again… itai…. i haven’t bungie jumped a wave on the north shore for years. yesterday was the first in a long time. it really wakes you up. right when you start to get comfortable at one of the deadliest surf spots in the world that has claimed many lives, you eat shit like this and become much more humble. right now i’m pretty humbled. i realize that things could have been worst so i’m happy with my bruised ass. do i want to bungie jump again? heck no…. anyway, thanks again fabian for sending me this photo and thanks neal for taking it. i’ll keep this one forever and always look at it when i start to get too comfortable out there…. aloha….
*gosh, i jumped off the top of this wave and got thrown out in front. i must have been about 15′ in the air? ouch, my ass is hurting again.. better go get another ice pack on it. goodnight….

good morning. 6:15am sunday morning. waves WAY DOWN on the north shore. pipe looks flat right now. maybe some 2′ sets if your lucky at other spots. south/west winds so kind of junky conditions out there. as for town, new south swell. looks in the shoulder high range. but as usual, when we get a south swell, the winds are bad. straight onshore and super junky all over. i bet everybody is surfed out so today might be the day to take off. my ass is sore. i’m going back to sleep… goodnight….
**a couple of ways to look younger…. i found these off the internet…..

use your blow dryer on a cold setting to dry your lotion and sunscreen. this allows skin care products to set and makes your makeup go on more smoothly and last longer….

sleep flat on your back. smashing your face into a pillow creates fold lines that eventually become permanent if they’re repeated every night. in a recent study of 38 women and men, Japanese researchers found there was greater wrinkling in the afternoon than in the morning; they concluded that the face literally falls with gravity as the day progresses. at night, you get a chance to reverse that.
**want to know my way how to look younger? simple. BE HAPPY!!![:????????$B!r(B:][:????????$B!r(B:][:????????$B!r(B:]

good evening. dawn patrolled backdoor again this morning. pulled up and the waves were still solid 4′ and pretty good….

jumped in for a surf with my brand new 6’6 minami. i knew it was a little short for out there but i wanted to try it out. caught a few waves and the board was working good. little short, but good. then as i was about to go in, a solid a-frame set came to me so i paddled my ass off to catch it. i got stuck at the top of the wave and i was already committed. so there’s 2 things you can do. one is to just go over the falls with your board and hope your fin doesn’t cut you or your nose doesn’t go up your ass. the other is to throw the board to the side and jump off. a little safer but still dangerous. kind of like bungie jumping. so that’s what i chose to do. i jumped from the top feet first, looked down at the shallow reef, and just closed my eyes. i penetrated the water and didn’t hit the reef, yeah, then comes the second part. the part where the wave picks you up and throws you back down with the lip. that’s when i put my arms around my head to protect it from the reef. at this point, you really don’t know where your going to hit on the reef. i ended up hitting my ass. my right cheek to be exact. it wasn’t too bad but i’m sure it will be bruised tomorrow morning. i’m happy with that because it could have been a lot worst….

so after, it was off to work. went on a photo shoot with kenji. those two girls are part of the go-naminori team…. chiaki and yumie….

a beautiful day with two beautiful girls. i wanted to say 3 but kenji ain’t that beautiful… haha…. just joking….

then i came home and my brother and shane just got home from diving. this was the daily fresh catch… gosh, if i went diving with them this morning, my ass would be fine. i only can sit on the left side now…

fresh fish and tako. can’t beat that. wait a little because the killer tako recipe is coming up on go-naminori soon….

and last, this is what you call “too much diving”. this is a blister on my foot from my fins. it doesn’t hurt when i go diving or swimming. but it hurts like hell at night. i was walking around my house last night wondering what all the red spots were. shit, it was blood from my blister. itai. gosh, my body is getting beat up. i’d better slow down…. not…..