good morning. still got some waves in town and on the north shore. came down a lot but still looking fun. gosh, that was a pretty solid south swell yeah? 3 full days of overhead surf? that’s pretty good for town. anyway, 5 guys out at rockpiles now with some lucky chest high leftover sets. mostly waist high. 12 or so at the bowl. diamond head is windy but i be lighthouse is fun. my eyes are bloodshot red, my back is totally sunburned, and my arms are tired from catching too many waves. better stay indoors today and relax. big north swell next week. yeah!!! have a nice aloha friday!!!
–oh wait, seen a nice wave at the bowl. might have to go get a couple of waves….

seiji-san and the boys from ika’ika are jamming all over shonan. this was the shonan festival. gosh, wish i was there… maybe next time…

check out the cool t-shirts. thanks a lot guys….

we’re in the middle of this big project in my front yard. when it’s done, it’s barbecue time!!!

and last, check out the beauty of mother nature. this was a photo from the msn pictures of the week. isn’t this amazing?? and yes, this is hawaii ne…..

good evening. another cool day here in hawaii. perfect weather and super fun waves. went to ala moana park and felt like surfing a left so we surfed concessions. i went out there and just had fun. i was so happy just to be in the warm water enjoying good waves with my friends…. surfing saiko!!!

naohiro is from wakayama and the next generation yamari shirasu factory owner. i’ve known him for 8 years and it’s so cool to see him grow from a young boy to a responsible young man. and it’s more cool to see him enjoy surfing as much as he does….

like i said this morning. may day is lei day in hawaii. it’s a big holiday and every elementary school celebrates this special hawaiian holiday. this is the may day festival at hokulani elementary school. i had a blast watching the kids enjoying themselves and it brought back so many good memories…
**and last. i’ve been surfing ala moana park for 23 years and counting. the first time i went out there, i seen this guy ripping and owning the lineup. that guy 23 years ago was the man back then, and still is now. ronnie yamada’s a good friend of mine and i’ve enjoyed surfing surfing with him all these years. we have surfed the best of big right’s together and caught thousands of waves out there. seen the best and surfed the best. ronnie did his fair share of traveling in japan and has many friends in isounoura. from pro surfer, to surfboard airbrush artist, to his current job, tattoo artist. ronnie is one of the top tattoo artist in hawaii and works for 808TATTOO.COM…. we paddled out together today, shared some fun waves at concessions, and paddled in together. so i pulled him over for this short interview. check it out…. and check out ronnie’s cool blog by CLICKING HERE….

good morning. HAPPY MAY DAY!! MAY DAY IS LEI DAY IN HAWAII!! waves in town going off again!!! i can see lines and lines of swell coming into bowls. looks 4′ and perfect. i think today has the best conditions so get out there and enjoy. north shore still has waves too. heard laniakea was 5′ and epic yesterday. waves for everyone…. see you in the water…
**i had a one hour wait at this local train station in thailand while waiting for my train. it was then when i walked around checking out and trying out the weird food there. nobody spoke english so i didn’t know what the heck i was eating. most food i got for free. the local people just wouldn’t take my money. they were so kind and giving. or maybe they just wanted me to try it? i don’t know but the people were so warm hearted and i felt so welcomed there. most of the things i tried i couldn’t video because i was by myself. but i had my camera on when one lady offered me this weird looking fruit. come to find out, that weird looking fruit was durian. yeah, that stinky fruit that’s not allowed in some areas in town because it’s so stink. if i knew what it was, i probably wouldn’t have tried it. but i wasn’t sure so i gave it a try. and to this day, that smell lurks in my mouth. i’m surprised i didn’t throw up…. i would never ever eat durian again…. even if somebody paid me too…. no way…. check out part 2 of many parts to come…