good morning. 6:45am and the waves are up. chest/shoulder high and on the rise. i think thursday will be the biggest day so this swell should last a long time. 25 guys out at bowls already and a lot of surfers at the park too. diamond head looks solid 4′. i’m kind of excited. be careful for the box jellyfish today. have a nice day. i’m out of here…. oh wait, i just seen a solid 4′ at the big bowl. gosh, if it’s 4′ already, this swell might get up to 6 or 7 feet by tomorrow. see you in the water….
**it was seth’s first day in japan. after a long drive from narita airport, we arrived in yugawara. thanks to tokura-san for putting us up on a sweet ryokan onsen hotel. after some good baths, and great buffet breakfast, we headed to the beach. the waves were small and the water was cold but good enough for the kids. they were having fun and that’s all that matters… check out this clip….

i surfed twice, once at bowls and rockpiles. then surfed again at lighthouse in the afternoon. went for a swim, a short hike, and some yoga to finish my day. oh, and not to mention my 3 hour nap…. going to do it all again tomorrow…. goodnight.

check out this train crash in china today. 70 dead and 400 injured. shit, when i was on a train similar to this one the other day, i was thinking about it crashing too. it was so old and didn’t look too safe. things like this can happen at any given day. that’s pretty scary when i think about it…

check out the new Hawaii Magazine. just got it in the mail. wanted to thank my friend darin isobe for sending it to me…

and wanted to thank darin for using my photo for this spread. cool layout. i’m super stoked….

when i got off the plane and came home, my brother asked me to cut this aku or katsuo for him. cleaning fish was the last thing i wanted to do. but when lunch time came around, i was thinking that a katsuo donburi sounded good. so a katsuo donburi is what i ate.. it was so good….

speaking of cleaning fish. i was walking through a night market in a little village in thailand and seen this girl cleaning fish. i wish we had these in hawaii so i don’t have to clean fish all the time. i’d be there everyday, with fish or without fish.. haha…. just joking….

good morning. 7am monday morning. waist/chest high surf around the island. trade winds making for clean conditions. got a bunch of guys out at bowls already. swell supposed to pick up tonight and peak tomorrow. hopefully 4’+ but just have to wait and see. i’m out of here…. have a nice day….

and if you don’t know by now, tahiti is going off!!! big and perfect for the billabong pro. japanese surfers in the trials all lost. bummer. wakita did the best and made it to the 4th round, which is pretty dam good. anyway, this is jamie obrien. good chance of winning the whole thing…. stay tuned…
i was in tokyo last year and shot this short clip of the world’s busiest intersection. it’s in shibuya and if you ever get lost, you will never be found.. they say sometime 3,000 people cross this intersection on one light. times that by the hundreds of times it changes a day. yeah, it’s pretty busy over there….