good morning. 7am monday morning. waist/chest high surf around the island. trade winds making for clean conditions. got a bunch of guys out at bowls already. swell supposed to pick up tonight and peak tomorrow. hopefully 4’+ but just have to wait and see. i’m out of here…. have a nice day….

and if you don’t know by now, tahiti is going off!!! big and perfect for the billabong pro. japanese surfers in the trials all lost. bummer. wakita did the best and made it to the 4th round, which is pretty dam good. anyway, this is jamie obrien. good chance of winning the whole thing…. stay tuned…
i was in tokyo last year and shot this short clip of the world’s busiest intersection. it’s in shibuya and if you ever get lost, you will never be found.. they say sometime 3,000 people cross this intersection on one light. times that by the hundreds of times it changes a day. yeah, it’s pretty busy over there….

good evening. such a beautiful day here in paradise. surfed bowls this morning and had a blast. waist high with 30 guys out but no problem. i was catching every single wave i could and riding it as for as i could. i felt like i just started surfing again. pure stoke!! everybody is waiting and talking about the next big south swell that’s going to hit this week but i ain’t waiting. i’m surfing everyday. then get burnt out, then go back to thailand. haha. just joking. good night….

drove thru waikiki this morning. looked like paradise….. lucky tourists….

heard tokura-san was in toyama yesterday. just wanted to give a shout to all the locals over there. this is miura-san from bouz surf shop. hope to see you guys this typhoon season. keep on surfing!!!

remember this? toyama nights…. can’t wait to do it all over again, and again, and again….

and last, this is my friend carter’s wife miwa narita. she just came out with her second book and wanted to congratulate her on that. what an accomplishment. congratulations miwa-san… if you want to become beautiful like miwa-san, you better read this book. i just got mine and i think i will look like her really soon… well, i wish…
check out MIWA NARITA’S BLOG BY CLICKING HERE….

god morning. 6am sunday morning. small waves around the island but good enough for me. going surfing!!

took me 3 hours from bangkok to get to mahachai. taxi, train, tuktuk, train then you finally arrive in the village of mahachai. super cool place to get away from intense city life of bangkok. don’t expect to find any hotels, any foreigners, or any english. just travel by feel and you should get there… the people i met along the way were awesome. really kind and friendly.
it was my first time to thailand and i’m glad i finally got to go there. after hearing all the negative things about that country in the news and stuff, like any other country, i knew there was a different side. and that’s the side i went looking for. bangkok is dangerous!! that’s what everybody says. so what. china town in hawaii is dangerous too, downtown LA in california is dangerous too. does that make hawaii and california dangerous? no…. to tell you the truth, i felt a lot safer in bangkok than i do in china town or downtown LA. i mean, a lot safer…. of all the so called “terrorism” countries i visited, i never felt threatened once. yeah, bad things happen in some countries but that doesn’t mean you have to label that country bad. just because 0.5% of the population has bad people, that doesn’t mean that the other 99.5% are bad too. every where you go, the few bad people ruin it for the good people. i’m fortunate to have met the majority of the good people in these countries and if someday i do come across the small percentage of bad people, that’s life. it could happen anywhere and if you don’t believe me, just watch the news in countries like japan and america these days. that’s a lot more scary…
my trip to thailand made me smarter, more understanding, and a lot more appreciative of the life i live. if you don’t appreciate your life, put 2 shorts, 2 tshirts in your bag and go deep into some third world country. i’ll guarantee you’ll come out a better person….
check out part 1 of 5 of some of the video i took getting to mahachai. it was such a great learning experience i will never forget….
**and last, wanted to thank mr. mosquito. i had to be at bangkok airport at 6am in the morning and my hotel had no clock or alarm in my room. i requested a morning call at 5:30am but didn’t trust. if i missed my flight, i would have to spend another 10 days in thailand because goldon week was coming up and every flight was over sold. to narita, and also to hawaii. anyway, a mosquito woke me up at 5am. and my morning call didn’t come. so if it wasn’t for that mosquito that was buzzing in my ear, i would probably still be in thailand….