good evening. another windy day today. well, i shouldn’t say windy. it’s just another ordinary day here in hawaii. sunny skies with cool tradewinds. it’s spring and usually the trades blow everyday so it’s normal. just checked the forecast. north and south swells on the way with trade wind weather. so if your waiting for those glassy epic sunny mornings, forget it. you missed it. i think my winter north shore season is done. got tons of good waves and good barrels. enough to last me for a lifetime. going to put my guns away, get out my small boards, and have fun surfs. not dangerous big barreling waves over shallow reefs. i’m going to miss going to the north in the early mornings. miss the big waves, miss the barrels, and miss the photos. the only thing i won’t miss is filling my tank up 3x a week. my passport’s on the way and as soon as i get it, i’m out of here. hope to get good waves traveling around the world along with good experiences…. the journey continues….

last week, there was this big sex scandal. the governor of new york got busted for spending over $15,000 on a call girl, or better known as a prostitute. the outcome? the governor quit his job. well, he had too. nobody could get away with this kind of thing unless your president clinton. haha… so as the governor’s career comes to an end, we now have this famous prostitute girl’s career on the rise. i don’t even want to know her name and really don’t care. all i care about is that so many people in this world have to work so hard on their careers to make it. but now days, all you have to do is screw a famous person and you’ll be famous instantly. something’s wrong with this world. and it’s pretty dam sad. what message are we sending to our youth????

and last, check out this old school ambulance that probably transported thousands to the hospitals in the old days in hawaii. what an antique…

good morning. 7am saturday morning. small waves around the island. north shore only breaking only at the spots that catch the north swells. pipe missing and is flat with nobody out. town is waist high and kind of morning sickness. wait till about 9am to go surf because every where should be cleaning up. in america, we’re so lucky that every year, we have to do our taxes. that’s what i’m doing now. i love paying our government taxes so they can cut down trees on the likelike highway to make it look beautiful. then i love when a tree falls on somebody’s window and cracks it causing $400 in damage. and i especially love it when they turn the other way when that happens….. it’s a lose lose situation for some of us…. but life goes on…. have a nice day…
**i was looking through my photo library and came across these 2 photos. oh, so precious…..

this is seth moniz when he was 8. i just got my new canon lens that day so i wanted to use it. i called up the moniz’s, headed to waikiki, borrowed a longboard, sat back and snapped away. most of my photos were out of focus but this one was as sharp as can be. so sharp that you can see seth’s bricks on his stomach. imagine being 8 years old and throwing out the fins like this? and imagine your uncle sitting in the channel taking your photo yelling “do something”. i still do that…

and this is another precious photo. kelia and alyssa. two cute funny girls on their way to bright futures…. gosh, this photo cracks me up. i said cheese and i got a lot of cheese……..

good evening. gosh, what a beautiful day today. the tradewinds are back in full force making our skies deep blue. there was some waves in town today. surfed bowls for 3 hours this morning. i counted 28 guys out at 10am and that’s only at bowls. it was crowded but plenty of fun waves for everybody. i was surfing the rights and kind of dropping in so sorry guys. i had my 5’10 and i was having fun….

look how nice it was at the beach. canoes, coconut trees, blue sky, clean water, and fun waves. gosh, is this the start of summer already? heard some bigger south swells on the way.. yeah!!!

there use to be a lunch wagon in the parking lot in the old daiei near ala moana that had the best plate lunches. steak rolls with garlic or wasabi. i use to go there all the time. well, the wagon is gone but found out that they opened a restaurant near by. right across the street of palama market to be exact. i ate there yesterday and oh my gosh… so good. this is the 10oz. rib eye steak with garlic on top. $10 is a deal….. but my breath still stinks from eating all that garlic….

i gave my friend brandon 3 big awe’o weo’s i speared the other day. he told me that he’s going to sashimi one, and make soup with the other two. it sounded so good that i wanted to take back the fish and do the same thing. haha…

i speared this mu the other day too. these fish are the hardest fish to spear. they stay far away from you so you have to stay down for a long time to catch these. i mean a loooong time. i was so happy to spear this one and there is no way in the world i would give a mu away. to me, this is the best eating fish. steamed=awesome. deep fried=awesome. nitsuke=awesome. sashimi=broke da mouth…..

and last, after 20 years of the same stove. i finally went down to get a new one yesterday. this is the newest type and hope it lasts another good 20 years of good cooking….