good morning. 6:20am aloha friday. waves way down on the north shore. maybe 3′ with nobody out at pipe. swell looks really north so lani’s must be the spot. town has some small ones. chest high at ala moana. 8 guys out at the park, 3 guys out at rockpiles, and 6 guys out at the bowl. the winds are blowing strong trades so got some morning sickness conditions around the island. i’m going surfing… have a nice day….
**hey guys, it’s the first time in 12 years when the dollar went below 100 yen. it’s a time for you japanese to buy dollars now. don’t miss this chance. and it’s a time for people in america to wait a while if they are thinking about going to japan. unless your filthy rich. i remember the last time i the dollar fell below 100 yen. it was back in 1995 when we just got off a boat in indonesia. it was front page headlines in bali then and it’s making front page headlines in america now. i’m changing some yen right now…. if you have some, you should too….

got these photos from craig sako out in millilani. what started out as wild pigs wondering in his back yard turned into wild pigs being his pets. craig, did you know that black wild pigs or “kurobuta” are the best eating???

and craig, did you know i tried black wild pig raw liver before and it tasted unreal? better keep those healthy juicy pigs away from my friends…. hide them in your room.. haha….

and craig, did you know that i would love to eat this fish? fresh oio fishcakes. ummmm. let me know when i can pick it up… haha…
***now to leave you off with a clip of jack johnson’s breakdown. watch good because that’s jack surfing in there too. yeah, jack johnson rips….

good evening. the trades are back and i’m loving it. cool days with perfect blue skies. ended up surfing kewalo’s this morning. it was 2′ and really fun. 7 guys out and plenty of fun waves coming through. i think i’m about over going out to the north shore. had plenty of good waves this year and just want to have fun surfing in town. same thing tomorrow. save gas, surf town…. have a great evening….
Please Read This:
***don king and julianne yamamoto king are two on the nicest people on earth. i met don about 20 years ago from surfing the north shore. back then, he was the best water photographer in the world. then don got into cinematography and became number one at that too. he’s filmed movies such as, cast away, die another day, blue crush, charlie’s angels II, and also the drama “lost”. if you seen those movies, don probably took all the water cinematography. amazing footage. and julianne yamamoto. gosh, i remember sitting in my 7th grade math class at niu valley intermediate school when my teacher introduced a new girl that came to our school. it was julianne. she had a desk next to me and we became pretty good friends. anyway, i haven’t seen julianne for years after we finished school. that’s until the day i seen her at off-the-wall about 10 years ago. i asked her what she was doing there and she told me that she and don had gotten married. gosh, i was so happy for her… and for him too… two of the nicest people…

anyway, i saw don in the water shooting the last big swell at pipeline. we were talking and he told me about this film he and julianne made. i had absolutely no idea what the film was about but i knew that if they both made it, i was going to be awesome. i searched for the website and found it. don and julianne made a documentary about their family’s struggle to heal their son beau from autism. it’s called “BEAUTIFUL SON.” “BEAUTIFUL SON” received the BEST DOCUMENTARY AND AUDIENCE AWARD AT THE HAWAII INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL. it’s going to be on public tv april 8th but i couldn’t wait so i bought the DVD. this is the first time in my life i actually bought a DVD, let alone watch one. i watched it last night and all i have to say “it was awesome.” i learned so much about the illness that is now affecting one in 150 children. i was so touched by these beautiful children. this is the kind of documentary that can change your life. it already has changed mine. life is so precious and you should never take it for granted… to don and julianne, you did an awesome job in getting the message out. i wish you and your family the best. you will always be in my prayers….

this is don and julianne’s beautiful son beau…. this is such an awesome photo. i love it. and when i seen don’s underwater cinematography in the film, i got goose bumps. and was smiling ear to ear….. when you watch the film, you’ll know what i mean….
CLICK HERE TO CHECK OUT THE “BEAUTIFUL SON” WEBSITE…..
AND CLICK HERE TO ORDER YOUR DVD COPY…..
***and for the people in japan that probably can’t get a copy, let me know. send me the money and i’ll buy it for you and send it to your house.. i really feel that this DVD should be in every household. i’m keeping mine forever…..

good morning. 6:30am thursday morning. the waves on the north shore came down a lot. looks 6′ and out of the north. maybe lani’s or sunset? town still has some chest high sets. got a few guys out at the park and not too many guys out at bowls. yesterday was freaking packed!! winds blowing trades now so kind of morning sickness everywhere. the trades will be blowing for the next week so no epic glassy mornings for a while. now i don’t have to wake up at 4:30am anymore. maybe go out north shore after traffic. have a nice day….

this is lester. bruddah les is from the east side and you will find him out at every good day on the north shore charging on his longboard. les mostly goes pipe but this was a one of those rare rights he charged. i’m stoked i was there to get the shot. yeah les, see you in the water….
**not to change the subject or anything, but did you know that over 3,000,000 girls have STD’s? STD’s is sexual transmitted diseases. 1 of ever 4 girls ages 14-18 years old in america have STD’s. i was shocked!!! that’s so sad. all you young girls out there, please be careful because this disease could lead to cervical cancer in the future…. in other words, keep your pants on….
**get this, here’s my email from pamela this morning regarding the shipment of my computer.
Hi Kirby,
I have not hear from you regarding the shipment of the Powerbook have paid for? Can you pls get back to me asap so i can confirm you have ship the item out to the address given.
Hope to read from you soon.
Regards
i feel like putting myself in a box, shipping it to “so called” pam, and then when he or she opens the box, out will jump me pointing my speargun right at his or her nuts… now that would be funny…. or maybe send her a box if some wild pig balls? haha…. i’m going to play along with this… keep you posted….
**and last, universal studios is making a short movie about my childhood life check it out….