good evening. gosh, how things change so fast. from rain, wind, and small waves to sun, and perfect surf around the island. now hawaii winter season is looking more like hawaii winter season. and the forecast is looking awesome. back to back to back swells on the way with light tradewinds. and the sun’s back. yeah!!! kind of late but i’ll take it…..

pulled up to off the wall this afternoon and this is the first thing i seen. a freaking 8′ perfect backdoor wave with nobody on it…. gosh, pipe and backdoor was epic. 10′ solid and nuts…. north shore season is in full swing and i’m stoked….

i seen wakita paddling for a wave so i snapped this photo with my cel phone. wakita took off on this 10′ wave, made the drop, and pulled in. sick wave….

went to check sunset beach after on the way to ted’s bakery for a piece of chocolate haupia cream pie. the waves were good and so was the pie….
**had a super fun day with kaori-san, manami-san, and hitomi-san. 3 cool sisters. we snuck into the LOST set and took photos. don’t want to post it because i might get arrested. now i’m probably going to get hooked on that drama too. but gosh, i don’t have time for that…. anyway, wish you three sisters the best in surfing when you get back to japan…. ganbatte ne.[:?????$B!x(B???:][:?????$B!x(B???:][:?????$B!x(B???:]

and last… get ready all you chick shoppers. NORDSTROM is opening in near the ala moana shopping center march 7th… i’m staying far away from there…. CLICK HERE FOR MORE INFORMATION…..

good morning. 6:45am on this cool monday morning. waves on the north shore in the 2-4′ range but watch out because it’s going to get big really fast. expecting 10′ sets by afternoon. 5 guys are out at pipe now and the conditions look pretty good. a little morning sickness again but should clean up as the day goes along. town got some waves too. chest high at most spots with clean conditions. it should be another great day of surfing. go out and enjoy it….

my friend derek sent me these photos of their latest VW dune buggy cruize. it was a sunday afternoon with fast cars, hot chicks, and heinekens. a lot of heinekens…. check out these car worth over $10,000 a piece…

then after the heinekens kick in, your foot gets heavy and your dune buggy starts going faster and faster. then after driving around sandy’s and makapuu like your in a nintendo game, the honolulu police department gets 911 calls. and when the 911 calls go through, the cops are on it like flies on shit…. busted baby…. then it’s off to court spending money for a lawyer trying to get your ass off heavy fines… is it worth it? heck no… but after a few beers, reality doesn’t set in until the next morning… haha… thanks derek for the photos and let me know when your going to let me test drive your dune buggy. my foot is itchy…. i might go too fast and end up in the water… that would suck yeah…. whoooooop…….

good evening. gosh, another fun day in the sun here in hawaii. went surfing with some japan super kids today…

this is reika noro (12), kairi noro (8), and kota iida (9). all from osaka and kobe. all of them on their way to a career in professional surfing. young start… ganbatte ne….

we pulled up to backdoor/pipe at 9:30am and it started to look good. had to wait for the good one but when it came, it came…. 3-5′ and thick….

met up with the moniz kids and all went surfing. this is on the wall where you park your car at v-land. a good view to check the waves….

this photo is classic. 3 groms making their way to v-land. when these guys get older, they are going to look back at this photo and laugh. that’s kairi, seth, and kota. by the way, v-land was 3-5′ and going off!!! so it’s like 10′ for the kids….

starting from the left is kota. kota got caught in the inside bowl at v-land and a big thick set broke right in front of him. he got pounded for 5 waves straight. it looked like he was over it and going in but i called him back out. when he paddled back out, i asked him if he was scared. he didn’t answer so that meant “yes.” i told him that he’s still alive so the worst part is over. he smiled at me for the first time today, paddled back out, and charged… next is reika. reika paddled out to v-land and was sitting on the shoulder. a big set was coming to her and i was yelling “go!!” she looked hesitant but here comes tony moniz on the side. tony went behind her and pushed her into a solid overhead thick sucking wave. she took off, made the drop, and went for an off the lip. she didn’t make the wave but i’m sure that was the biggest and most crazy wave she caught in her life. i asked her after how long she’s been surfing. she said for a half a year. what? a half a year? maybe that’s the first time a 12 year old surfer girl that only has been surfing for 6 months paddled out to v-land and caught a wave that big. pretty nuts… and last is kairi. kairi has so much energy and is always smiling. the whole time we were out at v-land, he was saying that he wanted to get barrelled. funny kid…. anyway, we surfed big v-land in the morning so our afternoon session at kewalo’s was like a playground for them. these 3 kids are on the road to becoming professional surfers and i’m pretty sure they can do it. i’m behind you all the way. surf your dream….

and last, check out the sunset overlooking rocky point. can’t wait till tomorrow. i love hawaii….