good evening. new swell on the way tomorrow. finally we’re going to get some surf on the north shore by late afternoon. everywhere should be fun. i’m out there….
there is a nice little sandbar next to off the wall. i was checking it out for a while today and the water was really clean. maybe some underwater shots tomorrow???
i walked by shirokiya yesterday and the smell of japanese food caught my nose. so i went in and ate a ika stir fry bento. $8.25. pretty expensive????
$6.15 for 30 x-large eggs. now that’s a deal. i stopped by peterson farm in wahiawa on the way back to the north shore today. raw egg over rice, and dashimaki tamago for dinner. so good!!!
i’m finally going back to japan next week. this is the kind of food i’m looking forward to eating. i already have it planned. oden from 7/11 for breakfast, ramen for lunch, and sashimi for dinner… yeah, can’t wait!!!
and i’ll be in indonesia in 3 weeks. yeah, can’t wait!!! i’ll be exploring little villages and making new friends. stay tuned for a lot of photos and vids…. mahalo….
Indonesia Faces….
Dream Boat Trips….
i got an email from a guy in california asking me where’s the best place to go for his first surf trip. that was an easy one. INDONESIA BOAT TRIP!! i told mark to save his money, and to get his ass on a boat trip in indo. once you go on a boat trip in indo, your life will change forever. the freedom, the culture, the people, the experience, the fishing, the waves, and the friends you’ll meet. something you can’t get at a surf camp. i’ve been going on boat trips for the past 15 years and i’ll jump at any chance. ask me to go to a surf camp? ummm, maybe. ask me to go on a boat trip? shoots!!!
one of the main reasons i said indonesia is because you wake up to mornings like this. mornings like this everyday!! sheet glass perfect conditions…. imagine paddling into a wave, bottom turning into the barrel, watching the barrel go over your head while watching the sun rise over the mountain, pull out with your friend cheering for you from the channel, paddle back out, and do it all over again!!! that’s a good trip…. so my advise is to save around $3,000, jump on a boat in indonesia for 2 weeks, and i promise you your life will change forever…. if it doesn’t, something is wrong with you. haha…[:?????$B!x(B???:]