oh my gosh!! i got up at 4am yesterday and headed to this river mouth. i already knew the waves were going to be big because the sounds of the waves kept me up all night. i scored!!! the best day of the year!!! everybody thinks i’m lucky but i don’t think so. being lucky is surfing the best waves in japan by chance. mine is not by chance. mine is by communication. i don’t use surfline, i don’t use japanese surf forecasts, my friends call me from all over japan telling me where and when the day will be. it’s just a matter of me getting there. so just wanted to say thanks to all my friends around japan giving me the best local surf reports. this time, matchi was my forecaster…. i’m not lucky to score good waves, i’m lucky to have awesome friends….
with every good day of surf anywhere around the world, there is always one guy, or one wave that stands out. whether it be pipeline, j-bay, or japan, somebody gets the wave of the day. and it doesn’t matter if your a pro surfer or not. yesterday’s day was tamaki-san’s day. i was sitting on the top of the jetty and luckily i had my camera. i took a 31 shot sequence of this wave and when you see the rest, it will blow your mind. congratulations tamaki-san for monday, august 31 wave of the day!!!
hey, the left was pretty good too. and there was only one surfer going left. that surfer was yujiro….
i saw 3 broken boards yesterday. that just shows you the power of river mouth surfing…. see you in the water…
