Blue Hawaii time…

Good morning 3:45am.
Ala Moana chest high and good.
Diamond Head shoulder high and fun.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to surf.
Have a wonderful day!

This has to be my favorite angle as a photographer.  It captures the view we all see as surfers.  Hamaoka-san enjoying the sunrise.  

As surfers, we all watch out for each other.  Making sure the ride is good, and making sure everyone is safe.  Tamiko-san looking good and safe on this one.  

Ikezaki-san smiling from take off to pull out.  I could see him smiling from behind.

Back to 2011:  Boat trip to Timor, Indonesia.  Kekoa Mau riding a long and perfect right.  Only our boat and only us out.  These kind of sessions don’t happen these days.  

Timor had some very interesting fish.  We were eating fresh fish every single day of our 12 day trip.  Living the healthy boat trip life…

Once again, the surf forecast got it WRONG.  We were supposed to have a new South swell the past 2 days in the 3-5′ range.  Nothing showed up.  Well, every surfer on the South shore showed up because there was no parking, lots of surfers, and little waves.  All you could hear in the water was “where is the swell?  When is it coming?”  Haha.

Once again, the South swells are very unpredictable and very hard to forecast.  There are just too many variables and too much distance from where the swell originates.  So that’s why nobody gets it right and even with all the technology we have now, they still can’t get it right.  So please don’t ask me when the next South swell is coming because if I’d be lying if I told you when.  In the meantime, just enjoy what we have because it always can be worst.