Round 1: Surfer Kawika connecting with photographer Neal at Bowls.

Every wave has a rainbow…

Good morning 4:15am.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds up to 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

When the waves on the South shore are small, I just drive 40 minutes to the East and there will always be a head high wave.  Sometimes a very challenging wave, and sometimes a very perfect wave.  The only problem about this spot is that it’s very dangerous.  I think that’s why nobody surfs here?

Almost every wave will let you do a simple carve like this.  So you can do it over and over and it becomes muscle memory.  Then when you go surf a clean wave like Bowls, it becomes automatic.    

After doing my daily workout at home, it didn’t feel like it was enough.  I wanted to push a little harder so I went to the gym.  Gosh, the weights seem to be getting a lot heavier than before.  Haha.

All the Moniz kids were over last night so it was a good time to get one of Seth’s old boards out of my closet.  Seth rode this “superman” surfboard when he was 11 years old.  I kept it all these years because I knew one of the next generation would be so proud to ride it.  

This is the next generation.  Dream big kid!  Just like Uncle Seth, you can do it!