Early morning Kyle on the SUP!

This turtle swims by every single morning right through the lineup.

Then another one swam by 30 minutes later.  Pretty cool to see turtles swimming by very calmly.  If you ever see a turtle swimming erratically, that usually means something with big teeth is trying to eat it.

The sets were chest high this morning.  Very low tide in the morning so it made the waves break very fast.  Here is Ronnie trying to get around.

My sister gave me this photo as a present many many years ago.  It’s been hanging on my wall ever since.  It means a lot to me because this was the first WSL contest that the boys surfed in at Sunset Beach.

Joshua and Seth were in the same heat.  Josh in blue, Seth in yellow, and I’m their caddy on the right.  Watching that heat from the water was so cool.  I was so proud of these kids.

Yesterday morning once more:  The empty barreling wave…

Good morning 3:45am.
Ala Moana chest high and good.
Diamond Head shoulder high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Saturday morning session:  There were about 25 surfers out at Bowls.  And there were about 10 good waves per hour.  A lot of waiting and a lot of hassling.  Carter getting lucky.

I forgot to post this secret surf spot session we had back in March.  The waves were small but perfect form.  Tokura-san surfing so good!  

Deco-san caught so many good waves.  We were all watching and cheering her on.  

This spot is very secret and very far out in the sea.  Nobody surfs here because it’s only accessible by boat, and the reef is very sharp and shallow.  

Sometimes we need a break from Ala Moana and the chaos.  Out here it’s just us and the big ocean.  This is as fun and peaceful as it gets.