Summer is here again!  The biggest swell of the year arrived today.  And there are 2 or 3 more big swells coming very soon.  I’m so excited!

Round 1:  Early morning Bowls.  Overhead sets and so good!  It was so good to surf big waves again.  The girls were so happy!

Michael Ho out ripping the new swell.  

Round 2:  OMG, the waves got a lot bigger this afternoon.  It was double overhead!  I took 2 high performance pro model boards for the girls to try.  I can’t believe they even made it out to the lineup.  The waves were big and wild but they caught so many waves.

We practice and practice for days like this.  We train everyday at different spots, different conditions, and different boards.  So when I saw the girls charging this afternoon, it made me so proud.  This was the biggest right of the day!  Go Rocky!  

We had the best session.  Only crazy surfers catch the rights at Bowls and paddle back out again and again on big days like this.  They were just happy to survive.  Haha.  I ended up getting 3 good barrels so I’m sleeping with a smile on my face.

The girls had no idea what they were riding because I told them it doesn’t matter.  So when we finished surfing, I told them to check the dimensions on the bottom of their boards.  One was a 6’6 Josh Moniz pro model shaped by Kerry Tokoro.  And the other one was a 6’3 Seth Moniz pro model shaped by Wade Tokoro.  They were riding real pro surfers personal surfboards.  They were so happy when they found out.

A day like today will boost anyones confidence.  The waves were so big this afternoon that only good experienced surfers were out.  These were the only 2 women and they caught the biggest waves this afternoon.  Now they know why Boot Camp is important because today was like going into a big battlefield.  The fight of their lives!

Yesterday once more:  The swell arrives!

Bigger waves and shorter board.

Kawika on a very good looking wave.

Post surf plantation ice tea.

Good morning 3:20am.
Ala Moana overhead and good.
Diamond Head 5′ and wild.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to surf.
Have a wonderful day!

Round 1:  Early morning surf with Ozeki-san.  Nice rides and nice surfer.

Enjoying the ride.

Slow waves and lots of locals.

Mighty Mouse almost becoming a local surfer girl.

Perfect waves and clean conditions.

Round 2:  Tsunami watch posted.  We get to Diamond Head and the waves were good.

Right here is when the tsunami watch was upgraded to a tsunami warning.  We had 4 hours to spare so enough time for a quick session.

In my mind was “Keep calm and go take Mayuki out to sea.”  That’s my protocol for tsunami warnings.  BUT, the traffic was completely stopped!  It took me 1 hour and 40 minutes to get to Ala Moana.  I ended up parking my car at the shopping center and riding a bike I borrowed from Mateus.

I get out around 6pm and watched hundreds of other boats heading out to safety.  I’ve never seen something like this before.  So cool to see all the boaters taking things seriously.

Here was an idiot surfing at Bowls about 20 minutes before the tsunami was expected to arrive.  I think some people can be so naive when it comes to Mother Nature.  I’ve seen with my own eyes what a tsunami can do.  It should be taken more seriously.

The DNLR police were out in the ocean making sure everybody was out of the water.  The tsunami was supposed to hit at 7:10pm and when I looked on the beach at Waikiki, I could see a few people standing on the beach watching the ocean.  I stopped caring about people that don’t respect nature, laws, and safety.  All it does is put others in danger.   Spent most of the night out floating outside of Waikiki.  It was a little nervous, but beautiful at the same time.  I really needed that time of silence and peace.  Thank goodness nothing bad happened.  Thank you to all my friends and family in Japan and Hawaii for reaching out to me.  Keep safe…