I finally got to download photos of my Canon 79D.  Check these out for now.

Kimura-san 71 years young.

Matsu and Kimura-san sharing the lineup at the Secret Spot.

Takami-san with speed, power, and flow.

Matsu flying around like an Indonesian eagle.  

Carter heading out to a spot all to himself.

Ken is the best driver in Indonesia.  Speaks Japanese, surfs good, and takes the best care of his guests.

Cool mornings are here…

Good morning 4:15am.
North shore chest high and good.
Ala Moana chest high and good.
Diamond Head shoulder high and good.
Light winds so clean morning conditions.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

The winds became calm again, therefore making totally epic morning conditions.  This morning was absolutely perfect!  

I saw a lot of empty barrels.  

When ever I surf at Bowls, I wonder how it would be being a goofy footer.  I’m pretty sure I’d get barreled on every wave.   Or at least I’d try on every wave.  

Beautiful!  

I’m still digging surfboards our from under my house.  Getting rid of these guns ranging from 7’0-8’2.  I’ve ridden the biggest and best waves of my life on these.  

I found this single fin from the 1970’s.  Do you know who Andries is?  I don’t.  Anyway, I’m going to wax this board up and try it out!