Chiyoko-san Boot Camp Day 2:  Longer and better rides.

Smooth take off and smiling all the way.

Red board in my face AGAIN!

Perfect form and very focused.

One of the most beautiful days of the year.

Work in progress.

I wish I had Rice with Shirasu.

Another day, another fix.

Homemade miso ramen.  Goodnight.

I’ve known Hawaiian pro surfer Mikala Jones since he was a little kid.  He would travel the world searching for the perfect barrel.  Surfed Backdoor and Off The Wall hundreds of times with him.  I’ve bumped into him in Indonesia, Japan, and the Philippines.  No other surfer in this world got more barrels than Mikala.  So when I first heard about his death, I was shocked, and still am.  It was a freak surfing accident in Indonesia.  We all know the risks and dangers, but would never think it would happen to one of us.  I feel sick thinking about his family and kids.  I feel sick about not seeing him anymore.  The surfing community lost one of the greatest soul surfers ever.  Thank you Mikala for the inspiration to keep us searching for that perfect wave.  See you in the barrel my friend…

Love the Ocean…

Good morning 4am.
Ala Moana waist high and clean.
Diamond Head chest high and good.
Lighter trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!