Ala Moana Five-0:  Book um Danno…

Good morning 3:40am.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

We wanted to do something different today so it’s always going to be different when you jump on Mayuki.  So many options. 

We stopped at a perfect little wave.  The girls jumped in and since I forgot my camera today, I took some photos from the boat.  

I’ve recently been teaching the girls how to “split the peak.”  That means approaching a single wave and sharing it together.  One goes right and the other goes left.  Here they are paddling out to an approaching wave. 

They turn around and catch this wave.  I was watching from the boat thinking “wow, this is amazing!”  The 2 girls splitting the peak all morning.

And another wave of one going right and the other going left.  This is so beautiful to see!

Ever since I ordered my very first red board 30 years ago, every red board that followed was magic.  It’s been my lucky color and now the red is spreading to the girls.  Spreading the magic!  

Then I went back out for Round 2 with Yoshida-san and his daughter Rico-san.  Now this is what surfing is all about.  Riding a wave and smiling the whole way!

Since the tide is so low, you can clearly see the reef.  Paddling out is tricky and if you go the wrong way, you will get stuck and will have to walk.  So proper instructions is important.  Rob and Marley inching their way out.

Teaching teenagers how to surf is my favorite.  You can see their curiosity, their emotions, and their joy.  Even though I met Marley for the very first time, I could tell by this smile that she was having a great time.  The surfers golden smile!

We started off in the inside and after 3 rides, she surfed perfectly.  Then it was time to take off the reef boots and go outside to ride the big ones.

I only had to explain things once to Marley.  Looking forward, bending her knees, and smiling not only looks great, but feels great.  This is great great!

If this girl has Instagram, this would be a cool profile photo.  Her first surf in paradise couldn’t have been any prettier.