Only a Surfer Knows the Feeling

Jo-san doing a very good bottom turn.  

I just love this angle.  Really nice style and form.  

The nose of his surfboard is inches away from my camera.  Risky shot, but worth the action right in my face. 

Morning is my favorite time of day.  Surfing with cool surfers in a location like this is pure joy.  Kenta-san connecting with nature.  

This is my absolute favorite photo.  After riding his best wave of his life, Hiro-san paddled back out with the biggest smile on his face.  Only a surfer knows the feeling…

June 7, 2023 Hawaii Surf Report

Rainbow Fever…

Good morning 3:30am.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and good.
Light trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Full Moon Boys

Kenta-san wanted to surf at 5am this morning so I was super happy!  I woke up at 2:30am and was ready!  

I told the boys to lineup on the beach for this photo.  They were smiling but all you can see is the moonlight.  We paddled out in the dark and it was so beautiful. 

Jo-san’s surfing super good.  After 25 years of surfing, he’s still stoked! 

Kenta-san tried my other board and loved it.  Much faster and way easier to turn.  

The waves were twice as big as last time but Hiro-san surfed twice as good.  You should have seen his smile after this wave.  So cool!

Thank you boys for the wonderful early morning surf.  Great to be back home at 7:40am fully content.  Hope you guys enjoyed the rest of your day.  I jumped in the sauna and took a long nap.  Such a lovely life…