Before I surfed, I was a boogie boarder.  My favorite spot was Sandy Beach shorebreak.  I use to ride my little bicycle holding my boogie board under one arm and ride around the dangerous curvy shoreline road around Hanauma Bay.  I was 12 years old.  Sometimes I made it to school on time, and sometimes I didn’t.  It depended on the waves.  No leash, no fins, and just searching for the barrel everyday.  And now 44 years later, the barrel is still my ultimate happiness…

So when I see boogie boarders still going on one knee and getting barreled, I can totally connect.  I still think it’s pretty cool.  Dean@Bowls…

Colorful days…

Good morning 3:10am.
North shore 4-6′ and perfect.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and good.
Light winds so clean conditions.
Sunny and warm.
Going to surf.
Have a wonderful day!

Waking up early in the morning when the sirens ring.  That means a boat full of shirasu is coming in.  We run down to the harbor and the auction begins.  

This is old Japanese auction style.  I’ve been coming here for the past 25 years and nothing has changed.  And I hope it never does…

Winner takes all! 

A cold morning on the shirasu boat.  This is the part of Japan I enjoy the most.  No tourists allowed…