Cheese…

Good morning 3:45am.
North shore chest high and coming up. Perfect.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and good.
Light trade winds so nice conditions.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

It was another beautiful morning in the ocean.  Super clean and glassy.

It’s so cool to see the dolphins looking so happy these days.  No boats chasing them so they can just enjoy the jumping to themselves.  OH, one boat called “Dolphins and You” chased a pod and got caught.  They got fined $1,000 and now everybody is watching them.  Leave the dolphins alone!!!

Been trying to stay away from the crowds so back on the foil.  It’s crazy how surfing so much recently made my foiling a lot better.  I can actually carve the wave!  Thank you Wesley for sending me these photos from today!

This is the ultimate feeling of FREEDOM!

Mayuki and me.  I’m so grateful to be alive…

I passed by Bowls on the way back and it was small and crowded.  No thank you…

This 23 year old surfer from Australia went on a surf trip to a remote area in Sumatra.  He got drunk, got naked, attacked villagers, and caused a ruckus.  The villagers then attacked him, held him down until the police came, and then tried to burn down the resort this surfer was staying at because they were fed up with the resort hosting disrespectful surfers like this.

In Australia or America, most likely nothing would happen to this kid.  BUT, Indonesia is different.  The place this surfer got drunk in is populated with 100% devoted Muslims.  The villagers are very conservative and very respectful to the law, which alcohol is prohibited.  Now this kid is subject to a maximum imprisonment of 5 years in an Indonesian jail.  The police already put him in an orange jail jumpsuit and paraded him around town.  They will make an example out of him.  It just goes to show you that just because you can get away with things in your own country, that doesn’t mean you can in other countries.  Indonesia is one of the most beautiful countries in the world.  The best waves, inexpensive, and very inviting.  If you go there, please behave because you don’t get second chances.  Saying sorry won’t get you out of jail…