Ron and the Rainbow…

Good morning 4am.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
North shore coming up later today.
Trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

We jumped on Mayuki and went searching for the perfect wave.  It wasn’t hard to find.

Perfect conditions for flying.  It’s been a while so getting up on my first wave felt super good.

Trying out a new surfboard is pretty easy and safe.  But trying out a new foil is another story.  It’s nerve racking because you have no clue what the foil will do once it starts flying.  It can be nice, or it can be not so nice.  Thank goodness this new Takuma foil was nice to me.  

The South swell is almost gone for surfing but if you’re on a foil, it just started.  It feels like a brand new day!

20 years ago, John Callahan invited us for a trip to North Sumatra.  Back then, North Sumatra was uncharted waters and the only way to access it was by boat.  We boarded this yacht and explored places where nobody’s ever surfed before.  We found good surf, pristine beaches, and a lot of sea life.

20 years ago, nobody’s dove here before because there never use to be divers around.  The fish were more surprised than me. Jumping in to catch dinner was like walking into a fish market.  

And lobsters were always on the menu.  

I surfed all day, dove in the evenings, then prepared fish for sunset time.  We were like Kings of the sea!  

Bintang beers and a fresh seafood platter floating around in the Indian Ocean.  Priceless…

Tokura-san took me on my very first boat trip back in the early 1990’s and since then, I was addicted.  We’ve traveled this world together sharing amazing moments like this.  Perfect waves with nobody around. 

These waves were never surfed before so there were no names to these spots.  Now, there are surf resorts and boats crowding the lineups.  If you heard of Latitude Zero Resort, this is where it sits.  They trimmed the coconut trees and built a resort.  I would be saddened to see the development so that’s why I never went back…