Morning surf run!

Good morning 4am.
Ala Moana overhead and good.
Diamond Head 5′ and bumpy.
Strong trade winds at 25mph.
Sun, clouds, showers, and rainbows.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

This is the lowest the tide gets in town.  By 8am, you could see a lot of reef above the ocean.  Be careful!

Our first Summer swell is here!  Solid overhead sets at Bowls!  So fun…

Lance Hookano on a medium one.

Ala Moana Beach park good too!

I went looking for the barrel.  And when I see one, I can’t help but smile.

Smiling before, during, and after.  The barrel gives me pleasure, escape, freedom, peace, tranquility, happiness, and ecstasy.

I caught this one, got barreled, went in, and smiled all the way home.  Then I saw my 12 missed calls, 23 missed text messages, and 8 emails.  OMG!  There went my ecstasy!

This was the first time I ever got served by a Geisha.  I was totally mesmerized.  I kept on staring at her because I’ve never seen anything so beautiful before.  It’s much better than what you see in the movies.  This was real!  

Sometimes I can’t believe that I traveled from Hawaii to Mexico to spearfish.  Mission accomplished.  

I once went bed shopping and told this girl to lay down on this mattress to see if it’s comfortable or not.  One minute later, she was sleeping.  So I bought it.  

Big Right’s has been my favorite since 1987.  Nothing in life feels better than a barrel.  Nothing!