Remainder of Life

Another beautiful morning surfing with the sunrise.  Tokukura-san loving the Diamond Head view!

Tokukura-san told me that the last 4 days, he caught more waves then he had in his whole surfing life.  Haha.  I’d guess he rode about a hundred waves!  Stoked to hear that!

Deleting photos so posting them before it’s gone.  Monk seals are cool.  One mother just gave birth to a baby on Kaimana Beach.  It should be there for the next 5-7 weeks.  Go check it out but stay far way please.

Learning about the ocean is fascinating.  If I could be born into another life, I would probably choose to be a fish.

One of my better photos from behind.  The red board, white bikini, and blue sky even makes it better.

The remodeling is complete!  Now it’s time to sit back and enjoy it for the remainder of my life.

Shark Attack Update

Been seen some of the Kewalo’s locals at Bowls ever since the shark attack.  Tommy told me that he’s never going to surf at Kewalo’s again.  Since the shark attack, nobody’s gone out there.  In fact, the whole Ala Moana Beach Park is pretty empty.  A lot of my friends are still traumatized.   

When something bad happens, you have a lot of people that have their own theories.  I’ve heard over and over that the shark attacked because the water was dirty that day due to the heavy rain.  BUT, Kewalo’s wasn’t dirty that day.  It was clean and as calm as can be.  That was just a freak accident.  It could happen to anyone at anytime at anywhere.  So enjoy your life to the fullest because freak accidents do happen.  

Driving through Waikiki feels strange.  There are so many tourists, BUT, no Japanese.  Now I’m starting to wonder if Hawaii will ever be the same…

April 14, 2023 Hawaii Surf Report

Nice to see you back Uncle Phil!

Good morning 4:30am.
Ala Moana waist with chest high sets and good.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sun, clouds, and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!