The Rainbows are BACK!!!

Good morning 4:20am.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 25mph.
Sun, showers, and rainbows.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Saying goodbyes after a wonderful trip is always hard to do.  

Borrowing a car and driving deep into Wakayama was exciting.  Breathtaking views.

I didn’t expect to surf in Japan so this session was a bonus for my trip.  30 years ago I would have paddled out to this secret spot and hassled for waves.  BUT, Tokura-san taught me well.  Where ever he surfed in Japan, he was very respectful to the locals.  I watched that and understand why he’s welcomed everywhere he goes.  I wanted to be just like him.

In my opinion, Japan has the heaviest locals in the world.  I’ve seen it all.  So to be able to surf a secret spot and not get sent in, beaten up, yelled at, or have my car damaged, it’s a success.  So thank you Tokura-san for teaching me by example.  I’m hoping to surf for the rest of my life in Japan!    

Our group from Hawaii did really good at the conveyer belt sushi restaurant.  I’m sure nobody will be eating  at Genki sushi in Hawaii anymore.  Haha.

I was the youngest of the 5 Uncles that were out yesterday at a spot outside of Ala Moana Beach Park.  These Uncles surf out there everyday and one of them said that this is the best it’s been in over a month.  As I was taught in Japan, you always have to respect the locals, especially the Uncles, especially if you’re surfing their spot.  It was a little tense in the beginning because even though this is Hawaii, I was an outsider to them.  I sat in the inside like a good boy.  Then after seeing these Uncles ripping, it really inspired me.  They were at their spot, talking, laughing, and taking turns.  After a few waves, we started talking and they ended up being super cool.  It made me realize how deep surfing is.  It’s so deep that after all these years, I still feel like a little kid.  Thank you again Uncles!