Waikiki Traffic Rush Hour

Good morning 3:10am.
North shore chest high and good. Onshore winds coming today.
Ala Moana waist high and clean. Bumpy later.
Diamond Head shoulder high and good.
Light South/West winds today.
Sunny and warm.
Have a wonderful day!

This morning I was expecting epic conditions like the past 2 days.  BUT, the ocean has a mind of her own.  Onshore and bumpy!  What ever she provides, we will ride.

It doesn’t seem bumpy in this photo but it was.  Totally opposite from yesterday.  The only thing same was the orange sunrise.

We’ve been doing extensive Boot Camp this past month.  My goal for this girl was to get her on a smaller surfboard, make sure she’s comfortable in the ocean, make sure she can catch waves on her own, make sure she can surf anywhere successfully, and make sure she looks cool.  Then this morning, everything came together.  She took off on this wave and did a beautiful cutback!

I just stuck my camera out and recorded her personal best ride.  This is perfect form.

Then she came right by me and did a really nice cutback!

I usually don’t like to get sprayed in my face but this time, it was special.  It was a spray of success.  She’s riding a shorter board, she’s feeling confident, and she’s ripping.  Total happiness!

As we were paddling in, I was thinking to myself “there’s nowhere else I’d rather be.”  Then I went home, dusted off my passport, and now I’m ready to travel.  Haha.

If you drive and search for waves, you will find it.  Oahu is an island so if somewhere is junky and onshore, somewhere is good and offshore.  You just have to spend the time and when you find it, it’s usually empty like this.  

You will hardly see clouds like this in the Summer.  This is the beauty of Winter. 

365 days of the year, this spot is crystal clear.  The whole island could be dirty, but never here. 

How to become a local?  Surf a spot everyday rain or shine and good or bad.  And most of all, be mindful and respectful.   

Beautiful sea.

Peek a Boo!