The waves finally came up again.  Chest high sets and perfect!   

So stoked to surf with Udagawa-san.  He’s been surfing for 30 years so we had a lot to talk about.  Super cool guy who knows a lot about Japanese surfing culture and mannerism.

Nice ride and nice man!

Look how beautiful it looks duck diving a wave.  

Lance Hookano is more Hawaiian than he looks.  A big guy with a bigger heart.

My dream was always to connect Hawaii to Japan.  The 3 of us combined have over 140 years of surfing experience so that’s a lot of connection.  

There are turtles everywhere.  I’ve been seeing over 5 a day, sometimes more.

After surf, I went to my nieces house to pick fresh fruits.  Tangerines and avocados.  Smells so sweet!

Yesterday once more:  Hanging 5 with Uncle Mark.

Good morning 5am.
Ala Moana chest high and good.
Diamond Head shoulder high and good.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Needed to do something different today so did something different.  Went outside Waikiki to look for some waves.

Found a good wave, conditions were perfect, waves were perfect, and vibe was amazing.

Surfed with the Uncles.  These are the coolest Uncles who share, care, and laugh out loud.

Uncle Mark on a beautiful wave!  A long perfect right.

I haven’t foiled in a while so I was wondering if my body even remembered how.  First wave and everything was back to normal.  This is by far the best workout in the world.  And also a great thrill.

Drove near Diamond Head to find a calm spot to anchor the boat.  Then I jumped in and scrubbed the bottom of Mayuki.  Another great workout!

I’m so grateful to be living in paradise.

Diamond Head is as green as it gets.  Another amazing day and will be looking forward to tomorrow.  Goodnight.