The endless swell continues…

Good morning 3:15am.
Ala Moana chest high and good.
Diamond Head head high and bumpy
Trade winds at 25mp.
Sunny with rainbows.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Early morning at Bowls was so good again.  The swell dropped a little but the shape was as good as it gets.  There were a lot of empty barrels.  I with I was a goofy footer!

Komatsubara-san and I surfed together 9 years ago.  We’re both getting older, but enjoying the ocean a lot more now.

Morning light with a morning right.  So nice!

Seira-chan is a good wave hunter.  She managed to catch so many good waves this morning.

And surfing it really well.

Round 2 this afternoon at Bowls.  Totally different vibe than the morning crowd.  A lot more aggressive, a lot more talent, and a lot more arguments.

After scoring yesterday at Bowls, we knew today would be even better.  Higher tide so the rights were perfect!

Seira-chan flying down this wave.

Look how beautiful the rights were.  Some of them were better than the lefts.  I saw Seira-chan ride some from Bowls all the way to Rockpiles.

A very talented young woman.  She knows how to catch the good waves, and she knows how to ride them properly.  Good girl!

We surfed 6 hours today.  Sunburnt and surfed out.  It’s only 6pm and I’m going to bed.  Goodnight or good evening.  Goodnight for me.

Diving into the big wave dark room…

Good morning 3:15am.
Ala Moana shoulder high and good.
Diamond Head head high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!