Mid-morning at Rockpiles was amazing.  Lots of big waves so you have to choose the right ones.  

Last week was big and I couldn’t get any photos.  BUT, today was big and I got some nice photos of this new big wave surfer.  

It’s pretty cool how confident surfing big waves can do to a man.  He was ripping all morning.  Now he’s back on an airplane dreaming about this mornings magical session.  

This afternoon the waves were going off at Bowls.  The tide was super high so the rights were really good and long.  

Guess who’s back?  Yes, Seira-chan is back and surfing better than ever!  She was charging this evening.

I can tell that Seira-chan was practicing in Japan because from her first wave, she was ripping.  Good flow and good style like always.  I get really happy seeing progression like this!

There is a price to pay to live in Hawaii.  These days, the price is very high as the cost of living is amongst the highest in the nation.  A new study concludes housing in Honolulu isn’t just pricy, but “impossibly unaffordable.”  I’ve never heard that phrase before but to say Hawaii is “impossibly unaffordable” says a lot.  

Thank goodness they caught this guy.  He attacked a girl walking on the beach at Diamond Head Cliffs at 10:30am.  In broad daylight, he tried to rape her.  OMG!  And Honolulu was also voted the safest city in the world?  Nowhere is safe anymore.  Please be vigilant and be smart!

Back in the day:  Barefoot in Cuba.

Good morning 5am.
Ala Moana big and good. 5′ and clean.
Diamond Head 6′ and bumpy.
Trade winds at 25mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!