I have this photo on my refrigerator.  I am forever grateful for the person who took it.  I was out one late evening in Waikiki teaching my little Princess how to surf.  She must have been 5 years old at the time so I probably promised her ice cream if she went surfing with me.  We caught waves together, we were laughing, we were the 2 happiest people in the ocean.  I didn’t have my camera that day so it was just our moment to remember.  The next day, my sisters friend called me and told me to come pick up some photos.  When I saw this for the first time, I actually teared up.  Just by looking at this photo, I can relive that moment over and over.   A precious moment where the ocean gave this little girl a wave, and she rode it so gracefully.  “The Beach is OUR Happy Place!”

Today I decided to open every one of my surfboard bags and see what’s inside it.  I thought I should get rid of 10 or so but after I finished checking them all, I got rid of none.  I have 84 surfboards that mean the world to me.  Keeping them for life…

The swells and barrels continue…

Good morning 3:40am.
Ala Moana chest high and good.
Diamond Head shoulder high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 25mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

I surfed with a super positive and happy guy this morning.  It is Kasashima-san’s first time to Hawaii.  He just came yesterday so today was his very first time in the ocean.  From the time we got in the water, he was smiling and smiling.

If you want to ride 25 waves in a session, a longboard is the way to go.  He kept on going, going, and going!  

Really good results from Boot Camp this morning.  Progressing each and every wave.

Kasashima-san told me about 15 times today, “I’m so happy!”  Look at his smile.  So cool!  

I pulled up to Big Rights yesterday and couldn’t believe how good it was.  On big days like this, there aren’t too many surfers out because it’s pretty hard to make it out past the waves.  It was just a couple of my friends sharing big perfect blue barrels.  Thanks boys!