Back in the 1990’s, I use to surf Backdoor everyday.  If it was barreling like this, I’d be there.  If you surfed there before, you know how dangerous it is, and also how rewarding it is.  Surfers die out there, and surfers have their best barrel of their lives out there.  High risk, high reward.  This is the best size for the long barrel rides.  You basically have to take off at Pipeline and enter the barrel from behind.  I’m not sure if I made this one, but I’ve pulled into hundreds of barrels like this out there.  I got hurt a few times, but glad to be alive.  And yes, my best barrels of my life all happened at Backdoor.

TRAVEL:  Money is recoverable, time isn’t.

Good morning 4:30am.
Ala Moana head high and good.
Diamond Head overhead and good.
Light winds so clean morning conditions.
Cloudy and warm.
Have a wonderful day!

Look at this photo of the Hilton hotel and lagoon back in 1957.  Look how clearly you can see the mountains.

And look at it now.  No mountains anymore.  Pretty shocking.

Uncle Barry surfs Bowls almost everyday.  He’s one of the longest locals out there.  Respect!

Was playing with the boys the other day.  So cool to see these loving brothers playing together.  I remember only fighting with my brothers.  Haha.