October 12, 2024 Hawaii Surf Report

Yesterday once more:  Epic Bowls…

Good morning 3:15am.
Ala Moana waist to chest high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and good.
Light trade winds at 10mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

No Beacon, No Life…

Surfing with Daisuke-san was so fun.  He figured out the lineup at Bowls pretty fast.  Keeping busy and catching a lot of waves.  And what impressed me the most was how well mannered he was.

I was watching him go higher and higher on the lip every wave he surfed.  This is ripping!

Daisuke-san is a very happy surfer.  If everyone could smile like this, the world would be a better place…

More photos I forgot to post.  Mighty Mouse realized how fun it is surfing big waves on a big board.  So smooth and so easy!

I think we’re ready for the North Shore!

John on a set at Bowls.  Better not be in his way.

The biggest memory I have with Taro-san was when I went to Niseko 30 years ago.  It was one of my first snowboard trips so I was basically a beginner.  He took me up to the highest peak, we hiked higher to the backside of the mountain, he put a beacon around my neck,  and said “GO!”  Till this day, that was the craziest snowboard moment of my life.  Since then, I heard they blocked off the back of that mountain because too many people died there.  The funny part of the story was I had no idea what a beacon was back then.  And when I found out later, I thought to myself “OMG!”

October 11, 2024 Hawaii Surf Report

Liquid glass…

Good morning 3:15am.
Ala Moana waist to chest high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and good.
Light winds so clean morning conditions.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!