Yesterday once more:  Tokura-san x Diamond Head…

Good morning 3:50am.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sun, showers, and rainbows.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Malcom was on the beach early this morning so we paddled out together.  I took my time and before I even close to getting out, I saw him riding a set already.  And of course, smiling all the way.  

Carter pushing his shortboard to the limit.  Protected by a Dove Wetsuit long sleeve rashguard.  Good equipment, smart man.

This girl has been surfing for a little over 4 years now.  Started off on a longboard and now riding a 6’0 and surfing with style and flow.  

Did you see the clouds this morning?  OMG, it was amazing.  So was Deco-san’s surfing!  

Tokura-san and I were supposed to go on a surf trip to Taiwan last month.  But because of the earthquake, we cancelled and now we’re on a surf trip in Hawaii.  Surfing everyday and enjoying the slow life.   Everything happens for a reason.

I’ll never forget the day 32 years ago when I told Tokura-san in Japan, “I’m going to become a salaryman in Tokyo.”  His reply was “No you’re not.  You’re a surfer.”  He was absolutely right!  The greatest advice of a lifetime.

Shot of the day: Uncle Ray getting barreled by the clouds. Early morning Bowls so good!

Beautiful as can be…