FREEDOM!!!

Good morning 3:50am.
Ala Moana knee high.
Diamond Head waist high.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

South shore was flat so I went to the East shore.  Head high sets and nobody!!!

So stoked so I was running down the beach.  This was 12:23pm.

Wave 1:  Nice and wild left point break.

Wave 2:  Going right into the rocks.

Wave 3:  No swimming but surfing ok.

12:33pm.  That was a 3 wave 10 minute surf session.  So fast, so easy, and so satisfying.  Nobody out so it felt so WILD AND FREE!

Round 1:  Satoshi-san’s been surfing everyday and has gotten so much better!  He’s a real surfer now!  

Good timing, long rides, and smiling all the way.

Kayoko-san enjoying the longest ride today.  Great balance and always looking forward.

Nobody was out this morning because the parking was closed.  We were so lucky to surf all to ourselves.

That was an amazing session!  Keep looking forward!