Today was still good. This 5 day swell is amazing! Everyone is happy!

Back in the day:  Yeti Baby!

Good morning 3:30am.
Ala Moana chest high and good.
Diamond Head shoulder high and good.
Light South/East winds.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

After coming back from Japan, all I want to do is surf.  There’s been really good waves everyday recently but it’s been extremely hot.  I’m so sunburnt that my face feels like it’s going to peel off.  I walked by a mirror yesterday and I was so dark that I couldn’t see myself.  I told myself to get out of the water when the sun came up this morning but it was so good that I couldn’t.  The waves were supposed to be coming down but this morning was the biggest day of the swell.

Came home and put an ice cold wet towel over my face to cool it down.  It didn’t work.  My body feels like it’s on fire.

This particular ryokan in Hokkaido was my favorite.  A very big room, huge onsen, cold water plunge, snow, deer, and maybe bears roaming outside.  It was deep in the most natural mountains with the freshest air.  And best of all, no foreigners!

The hairy crab was so good too!

I ordered a melon smoothie from a shop and couldn’t believe how small it was.  This would be considered a “sample size” in America.

The weight I gained in Japan is finally gone.  Eating simply and healthy.  Already looking forward to the next trip abroad!