I’ve been working very hard with this girl to get her to her goal, which is to surf like World Champion Carissa Moore.  Yesterday morning, she finally figured out how to attack the lip like a pro.  Once she builds that muscle memory, her surfing is going to be powerful and stylish, just like Carissa.  

Daisuke-san is a very smart surfer.  He knows how to manage a lineup.  He knows not to drop in on other surfers, he knows not to get in anyones way, he knows how to paddle around back out, and he knows to go when I say “GO!”  I was yelling “GO” on this set of the day!  

Dr. Ryu-san likes a challenge.  So after a couple waves on the longboard, he looked at my board and said “can I try it?”  Well, he didn’t exactly say that, I could read his mind.  Haha.  So I let him try it and his first wave he popped up and rode this wave.  After that, I never got my board back until we got back to the beach.  

If you let a surfer try a magic board and he likes it, good luck getting it back.  Haha.  Dr. Ryu-san even told me that he’s going to take this board back to Japan.  If he does, I’m going to call the police!  Haha.

Daisuke-san looking good!

Good morning 3am.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to surf.
Have a wonderful day!

It’s been a while since we paddled out in the total pitch dark.  I couldn’t see anything when we got out to the lineup.  It was just by sound and feel.  

Daisuke-san was hearing and feeling it.  He caught some waves in the pitch dark.  He’s such a good surfer and a really nice guy.  

He caught so many perfect lefts.  I rode behind him on a few cheering him on.  

Another one all to himself.  Daisuke-san rode 5 perfect sets from start to finish.  I told him yesterday “if you get a set at Bowls, please don’t fall because everybody is watching you.”  And he didn’t fall once!  He was ripping!  

Riding good waves and paddling out with the biggest smile on his face.  This is surfing.

The fish were swimming under us all morning long.

Today was the least crowded of the whole week, and also the best waves of the whole week.  We scored!  Round 2 I went back out after lunch with a special guest.  I forgot to ask her if I can post her photo so better not for now.  But she got some really good waves and did great.  It was her first time surfing and probably not her last.  A new surfer girl is born?  

Round 3 with Dr. Ryu-san.  Fresh off the airplane as we surfed until the sun set.  He was so happy after riding his first wave.  I’ll post more tomorrow but I just wanted to say for now, “OMG, nice Dove wetsuit!  I love the colors!!!”