Friday November29日 2024年

Niseko to Okinawa to Bali to Hawaii

Takahashi-san never surfed at Bowls before so I wanted to make sure he had a positive experience this morning.  We had so much fun that a second session was a must.  We paddled back out right after lunch and the waves were even better than this morning!

Lina-chan dropping in on Takahashi-san.  Women always come first if you surf with me.

Snowboarding with Lina-chan in Niseko earlier this year was so fun.  In the mountains, she charges 100%!  Today was her first surf in Hawaii and I wasn’t surprised that she was charging in the ocean too.

I saw her attack big snow capped mountains so carving on a wave like this was probably easy for her.

In the mountains she yells “GO!” from behind.  So from the ocean, I thought I should yell “GO!” from behind too.  Great style girl!

When I surf with friends in Hawaii for the first time, this is the goal.  Rides like this will never be forgotten.

Traveling all year round from Niseko to Okinawa to Bali to Hawaii is the dream life.  Takahashi-san living the dream life every surfer dreams of.

Watching the girls taking turns on waves, laughing, giggling, and smiling.  This is surfing…

October 8, 2024 Hawaii Surf Report

Yesterday once more:  Late season South swell…

Good morning 3:10am.
Ala Moana chest high and good.
Diamond Head shoulder high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Dark Training

Daisuke-san surfed 5x with me on this trip and this morning was the best of the best.  We were the first ones out in the dark and the waves were head high and pumping!  We had it all to ourselves for the first 20 minutes.  He caught 4 sets all to himself.  Check out Daisuke-san’s shadow surfing.  

Then the crowd came out at sunrise so we switched to the rights.  Look how perfect it was!  Imagine coming to Hawaii for your very first time and surfing perfect Bowls for 5 days.  This is where you can practice, and this is where you can get good pretty fast.  

Great to watch the progress day by day.  Daisuke-san is going back to Japan a brand new surfer!  He caught over 70 waves this week which is very hard to do at the best spot on the south shore!

First trip to Hawaii and probably not his last…