Round 1:  Surfed again with Noda-san.  Just off a flight and into the water.  The waves were small but not if you’re from Japan.

If you’re from Japan, a day like today would be really good.  Perfect long lefts with rainbows everywhere.

And not to mention, it was very uncrowded.  I was following Noda-san on a few perfect lefts as he was in front ripping it!

Nice turns on the 5’10 Joshua Moniz pro model shaped by Tokoro.

So nice to see the Uncles out early in the morning.  Getting some exercise, a few waves, and a great rest of the day.

I noticed the water at Bowls was very clean.  Probably the cleanest it could ever be.

Malcom was out smiling all morning long.  Such a cool guy that enjoys surfing, and life in general.

We always talk about days like today.  Super mellow and very peaceful.  We love it!

Round 2:  Dolphins, dolphins, and dolphins!

No rain, no rainbow…

Good morning 3:30am.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

I saw Ronnie paddling for a set.  He’s in the perfect take off zone.  I was thinking it was going to be an amazing ride!  

As I was watching, I saw a young surfer girl making a big mistake.  She was trying to paddle to the shoulder to get out of Ronnie’s way.  BUT, she should have actually paddled the opposite way to get out of his way.  

Then she took her time duck diving under the wave.  Sticking her ass up too long.  She should have duck dove and brought her ass down faster so it wouldn’t get in the way.  

See Ronnie?  See the ass?  A lot of inexperienced surfers will run that ass over with all 3 fins.  But Ronnie is experienced and knows it’s not worth the risk.  So he starts to straighten out his surfboard, thus giving up on that perfect wave.

And because of that, he missed the most epic barrel!  I see this all the time and I wish someone would teach people what to do in situations like this.  It’s just a matter of time until someone gets hurt.  PADDLE AROUND!!!!