Paddle, paddle, paddle!

Go, go, go!

Here is the shot!

Good morning 3:20am.
Ala Moana chest high and good.
Diamond Head head high and bumpy.
Light trade winds at 15mph.
Sun, clouds, showers, and rainbows.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

I still like to go back and forth to foiling because I don’t want to forget something that took me so much frustration and pain to learn.  The crazy thing is it’s easier than I expected, and the turning is much better now that I surf so much.  And it still feels like I’m surfing on a 10′ wave even though it’s actually waist high.

My equipment is old, but so am I.  Haha.

Another day of almost getting hit by a surfboard.  This one was 3 fins coming straight towards my head.

Speaking about fins, we’ve been testing out different fins and different varieties.  It’s cool how every little thing matters.  We’re sure learning a lot.

I still think this has been the best summer in years.  Good waves and perfect conditions everyday.

Mateus came over and told me some of his new jokes.  This kid is very funny!

It’s good to see stores cracking down on shoplifting.  This is Palama Market and whenever someone steals something, they post it on a board right near the entrance.  It would be very embarrassing to have a picture of yourself on here.

They have photos of the person, the date, and what they stole.  In this case, a bento.

This girl stole fried mandoo.  We are coming to a time where people are stealing food to eat.  Crazy!

Nice swell with a different direction.  You have to find the perfect one like this!

Much more power than usual for the good ones.

Bigger board is better.

Round 2 mid-morning and waves got even better.  

Very nice and smooth bottom turn.

Stay low, stay calm, and turn!  

Bigger board means easier takeoff.  

Keeping low and start your bottom turn.  Hurricane swell continues…