Wow, the waves were BIG this morning!  Double the size as yesterday and the boys and girls were charging!

There’s nothing like coming to Hawaii and surfing your dream…

Throw in a rainbow and it won’t get any better than this.  Big waves, clean conditions, and happy faces all morning long.

Forgot about yesterday’s Round 2 at Diamond Head.  The waves were super fun and if you know how to surf this very tricky wave, you will ride each wave for over a minute.  Right board, right place, and right time!  

Good to see Cedric ripping after all these years.  I met him back in the 1980’s as he was one of the top surfers in Hawaii.  He still surfs everyday!  We surfed Big Rights together ever since so I’ve seen this guy in thousands of big blue barrels these past 40 years.  

Open house on Sunday so we went to check out this $4 million dollar view.  

This one was a little cheaper.  For $2.6 million, you can live here and wake up to this.  

Thank you Neal Miyake for the photo.  Just happily passing on by…

Double rainbow!

Good morning 3:15am.
New South swell!
Ala Moana chest high and coming up.
Diamond Head head high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 25mph.
Cloudy morning and sunny afternoon.
Going to surf.
Have a wonderful day!

Early morning was good.  Just the Uncles enjoying this beautiful Sunday morning.

Back on the 6’4 and catching every wave.

Super clean conditions if you caught the right wave.

Successful landing of the late drop.

Imagine never touching a surfboard in your whole life.  Then come to Hawaii and start surfing on a 11’0 longboard.  Practicing throughout the years and working your way down to a shortboard.  Surfing Bowls and learning mannerism, respect, and surf etiquette.  Then today, the best wave of the day comes right to you, you take off, turn left, and ride it perfectly.  Then you paddle back out and all the local boys are clapping for you.  It was a special moment.  It was real.  And it was amazing!  One of the local Uncles said “she went from zero to hero!”   Congratulations girl!

Last, Jeannie and the rainbow…