Another perfect morning at Ala Moana. Shoulder high sets and EPIC conditions. Boot Camp continues.
Finding the right wave to ride is one of the hardest parts of surfing. The only way is by experience. You have to understand the spot, the reef, the current, and the direction of the wave. You also have to be in the right place at the right time. Little by little you will figure it out and when you do, it’s something you will never forget for the rest of your life.
One of the best summers ever! Good surf and happy surfers all day.
Back when Seira-chan came, she rode a high performance board and was ripping on it.
Nakagami-san going with the flow right into the sunrise.
Kyle has a style of his own. Very classic and he catches the most waves every morning. I’m pretty sure he goes to work a very happy man.
The girls are taking their surfing to a higher level. Surfing different types of boards on different types of waves. On any given day, I can put them on any surfboard and they will preform. And when they can’t they get scolded. Haha.
It’s on the longboard days you learn the most. It teaches you how to slow down and become ONE with your surfboard. You also learn more about the ocean because you can see more. Take offs are faster and timing will improve. And as for paddling? I would bet these girls can paddle faster and longer than most guys. If you want to try to race them, don’t embarrass yourself. Haha.