Saturday November2日 2024年

Girls Paddle Race

Another perfect morning at Ala Moana.  Shoulder high sets and EPIC conditions.  Boot Camp continues.

Finding the right wave to ride is one of the hardest parts of surfing.  The only way is by experience.  You have to understand the spot, the reef, the current, and the direction of the wave.  You also have to be in the right place at the right time.  Little by little you will figure it out and when you do, it’s something you will never forget for the rest of your life.

One of the best summers ever!  Good surf and happy surfers all day.

Back when Seira-chan came, she rode a high performance board and was ripping on it.  

Nakagami-san going with the flow right into the sunrise.  

Kyle has a style of his own.  Very classic and he catches the most waves every morning.  I’m pretty sure he goes to work a very happy man.

The girls are taking their surfing to a higher level.  Surfing different types of boards on different types of waves.  On any given day, I can put them on any surfboard and they will preform.  And when they can’t they get scolded.  Haha.  

It’s on the longboard days you learn the most.  It teaches you how to slow down and become ONE with your surfboard.  You also learn more about the ocean because you can see more.  Take offs are faster and timing will improve.  And as for paddling?  I would bet these girls can paddle faster and longer than most guys.  If you want to try to race them, don’t embarrass yourself.  Haha.

Waikiki Lifesaver

I was sitting on the beach talking with Micah, Isaiah, Joshua, and Seth.  We were talking about how crazy Waikiki can be.  Big egos, the inexperienced, and the clueless people everywhere you look.  Then right in front of us, this Korean tourist couple got smashed by a wave and pushed right into the rocks.  Micah got up and ran down to help them.

I just watched as I knew Micah would save them.  The guy got pushed over the rocks with the previous wave and was trying to climb up the rocks again.  Why?  I don’t know.

Then the girl gets pushed into the rocks and luckily her surfboard prevented her from major scratches on her body.

It could have been worst, but luckily it wasn’t.

Micah told me it’s like this everyday.  I thought Bowls was crazy but this is crazy crazy!

As peaceful as the ocean can be, it can also be cruel so please be careful.  And thank you Micah for saving that couple.  They had no idea how dangerous that situation could have been but we all do.

August 5, 2024 Hawaii Surf Report

Yesterday once more:  Mighty Mouse at mighty blue Waikiki!

Good morning 3am.
Ala Moana shoulder high and good.
Diamond Head head high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to surf.
Have a wonderful day!