another another another long long long day day day…. gosh, i don’t know how i get the energy to do the things i’ve been doing these days. i feel like superman or something because i’ve been surfing, diving, shooting, swimming, playing, and playing. not to mention the hours spent on my computer… but you know what? i’m pretty happy doing what i’m doing…. tired, but happy…. so today was like every other day. surf, shoot, and play… left home before 6am and was looking into a pretty killer sunrise….

check out these happy kids. shun was so happy to ride on my boat along with seth and hayato. he was smiling the whole way out… the waves were solid 4′ for adults, and 6′ for the 2 kids. but they were charging hard. i wish i could show you the photos i took but sorry. have to wait. but just let me say that the waves were big doubling up barrels over dry reef. seth and shun were pushing each other and that was cool to see. it would be even cooler to see them in the future splitting a peak at backdoor/pipe….

i will only show you one photo from today. this is superman hayato. and this is real. here’s the story behind the photo: hayato can surf, dive, shoot photos, fish, and pretty much do everything. so i told him that i bet he couldn’t fly. he looked at me with a smile as he paddled back out and said “watch”…. shit, hayato can ficken fly too. so his new nickname is “SUPERMAN”….. sick photo yeah….
**oh, today was so long that i forgot we surfed big rights this afternoon. best day of the summer? yeah. uncrowded? yeah. was everybody happy? yeah. am i out there tomorrow morning? yeah. can you give me all the sets? yeah? haha…. see you out there. oh, wanted to say thanks to the boys out there today for sharing the waves with all japanese pro’s. kazuya, hayato, and keito were getting sick waves… please share tomorrow too ok? thanks guys….
**and last. sorry everybody for putting everything like meetings and emails aside. you must know by now that i’m too busy enjoying my job. i know you understand so just wanted to say thanks….

good morning. it’s 4:45am and pitch dark. kind of raining outside but i see a lot of waves in town. looks way bigger than yesterday but the winds might be funky. just like yesterday, surf allllllll daaaaayyyyyyy….. see you in the water….
**check out the groms ripping up queen’s waikiki….

good evening. what a long day again… dawn patrol boat style. met todd, hayato, and the 2 groms for some morning secret surf session….

this kid’s from the west side. got the confidence of sunny garcia and pulls into barrels like him too. watch out world…

after our morning session, went to pick up shun from the airport. drove thru waikiki to look for his friends…. i took this photo of him standing in waikiki. i wonder if shun knows that at this very place, surfing was born. i doubt it…

as soon as we pulled up, the other groms just came in….

i love my boat. and i think everybody that rides it loves it too. you know why? it sucks to paddle for an hour to surf secret spots. here are hitchhikers hayato and todd….

isaiah’s blowing up. his surfing got 4x better since the start of this year. i think it’s confidence….

after we surfed a reef break, we went around the corner and checked out this perfect sandbar left. gosh, nobody was out… can you believe it? got some sick photos today but you’ll just have to wait…
**oh, second session was straight to queen’s. busted out the longboards and got some pretty sick video. too tired and sunburned to do anything so going to have to wait for that too… good night…