40 days and 40 nights….

good morning everybody!!! jumped on a plane last night and flew back home to hawaii. only be back here for a few days but i need to reset. it’s been a long 40 days and 40 nights on the road. jumping from hotel to hotel, from friends house to friends house, living out of my suitcase. from long car drives, to train rides, to bus rides, i traveled over a 2000 miles and went to 8 different prefectures. scored good waves, ate good food, and most important, had so much fun. i’m looking forward to the next few days of sleeping on my own bed, driving my own car, and eating at home. i only have a few days to get my body back to normal. the last swell, i was wondering why my trunks were so tight, and why my surfboards were so thin. then i jumped on the scale and found out why. i gained 15lbs of happiness. going to the gym, do some yoga, and of course, surf and dive….. i took over 3000 photos on my trip to japan. hopefully i will have some time to post them. wanted to say thanks to everybody who put up with my shit these past 40 days. but don’t get too comfortable because i will be back by next weekend…. haha….. see ya soon….

once i got a glance of the hawaiian islands, i had a smile from ear to ear. gosh, i’m glad to be home….
**i flew on united for the first time in a long time. it was jammed packed, a guy from california that sat next to me couldn’t stop talking, he kept on looking over my shoulder at every page of the magazine i was reading. i was pissed. and the flight attendant keep on talking to me too. i tried to sleep but she kept on waking me up. “excuse me, are you hungry?” what!!! i’m freaking sleeping!! how can i be hungry if i’m passed out sleeping? she did that twice. it was the worst return trip back to hawaii. next time, i’m going to stick to Japan Airlines. or i’m going to write “do not disturb” on my forehead…. anyway, i’m home now and now i’m going to sleep and probably be jetlagged for a few days. thanks united…. good night….

Glenn Minami Bullet….

good evening. waves finally went down. i’m surfed out. got an email from jerry saying that cloud 9 in the philippines was going off. i’m going there sept. 20th so i have some time for a little vacation. i’m at kansai airport now buying a ticket. i’m thinking about going to bali, or paris, or thailand, or tahiti. going to check the forecast and figure it out…. see ya[:?????$B!x(B???:]
a few months ago in hawaii, glenn made me this magic small wave board. he calls it the “Bullet” and it works super good. i’ve been riding it ever since i got it and now i love to surf small waves. it’s a perfect board for japan’s small beach breaks and river mouths. small wave surfing is as fun as it gets. thanks glenn….

and masaki for sending me this photo of the other day in shizuoka. and thanks yasu for taking it. this is my bullet. it’s getting yellow and bust up from riding it so much. i just ordered another one from glenn. he’s in shikoku now shaping for TSSC and is only here for only another week. if you want a magic small board, now’s your chance. and if you want to try mine, neva mind. because if you ding it, you better run for your life….[:?????????:]
**by the way, did you know that you can check out go-naminori and my blog from your cell phone? i didn’t know that. naoka set it up so you can view every page from you cell phone. stick this address: http://www.go-naminori.com/i in your cell phone and check it out. or check out the left side of the go-naminori main page. amazing technology….. thanks naoka…..

More Barrels Photos…..

ohayo gozaimasu. 7am here in beautiful japan. gosh, was watching the news lastnight and tokyo side got hammered by the typhoon. it’s amazing how up there could be so wild when down here in shikoku was a picture perfect day. i’m going to relax today and go buy a new toy. see ya later…

this is how it all starts. step 1. do a dry run just like this. gosh, this is a classic photo. father and daughter totally bonding….

step 2. stand up and ride it as far as you can. this little girl is 7 years old and loving life…..

yusuke surfed the beginners division last year and got 2nd. this year, he surfed the open division and got 2nd. next year is his year to win. i’ll put money on that. yusuke just started surfing not too long ago and already knows how to grab rail. good job yusuke….

this is shizuoka local eigo-san. he surfs with power and rips. eigo charges waimea bay and big sunset beach. and he is also a great diver. surfer/diver? great combo….

imagine waiting on the inside and seeing the sets breaking like this on the outside. just wait 1 minute and you know it’s coming….

another snap from yusuke…..
**check out the barrels surf clinic gallery on GO.NAMINORI.COM….